tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-58254475748909482062024-03-13T02:11:36.659+01:00Andrea Zanone Climbing ExperiencesAndreaZanonehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07755444194137851372noreply@blogger.comBlogger15125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5825447574890948206.post-35027369635351237122015-10-17T20:06:00.000+02:002015-10-18T18:57:23.123+02:00Rocklands, South Africa<span style="font-size: large;">The trip in South Africa was amazing, probably the best experience in my climbing career for sure. I spent one month completely in touch with a amazing and super wild enviroment and I had the opportunity to climb on a perfect rock quality and understand all the process that the professional rock climbers lived during their trips.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjW_7gKLL57PqEvtC6qQiZXjclHW6J7wak3_YkgFwNl9Rv1t-uXyHcoE6h9RK4C8clQSUSmHJDOd20VAdgh5pezmF9THb-ZevdRQjdZh9pBVRn6DIXQ48J6QPhrYeUGOVXe47HqTk90bh7L/s1600/The+pass.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjW_7gKLL57PqEvtC6qQiZXjclHW6J7wak3_YkgFwNl9Rv1t-uXyHcoE6h9RK4C8clQSUSmHJDOd20VAdgh5pezmF9THb-ZevdRQjdZh9pBVRn6DIXQ48J6QPhrYeUGOVXe47HqTk90bh7L/s640/The+pass.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The pass, Rocklands Ph. Marco Zanone</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Our crew was composed by Marco (my bro), Luca Rinaldi, Gabri Moroni and I.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">We were extremely motivated to spent all the time possible on climbing, to be able to repeat the hardest and the more beautiful lines of Rocklands </span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpcHCgoP4ZYbESmMiuo5IP6tTs3BJPByOuEjeRaRVrzfUthbIcFXiWjx8bqFN44vBB9KkgSN0fbmZYihKUsC1KVj4Cp9B6ghlk6EBzQjarvE_FZcw7ABBKjXV1p9MJbbHLPfStpNgMCZ73/s1600/Roadside+sector.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpcHCgoP4ZYbESmMiuo5IP6tTs3BJPByOuEjeRaRVrzfUthbIcFXiWjx8bqFN44vBB9KkgSN0fbmZYihKUsC1KVj4Cp9B6ghlk6EBzQjarvE_FZcw7ABBKjXV1p9MJbbHLPfStpNgMCZ73/s640/Roadside+sector.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On our way to get the Roadside sector Ph. Marco Zanone</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Here is my ticklist of all the boulders I was able to climb during the month, in order of grade:</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">-Golden Shadow 8b/+ ***</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">-The Vice 8b ****</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">-Mooiste Meisie 8b *****</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">-El Corazon 8b *****</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">-Black Shadow 8a+ ****</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">-Monkey Business 8a+ ***</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">-The power of one 8a+ ****</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">-Armed Response 8a+ ***</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">-First Blood 8a ***</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">-Gliding through the waves like dolphins 8a ***</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">-Shosholoza 8a ****</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">-Leap of Faith 8a ***</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">-Nutsa 8a ***</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">-Royskopp 8a ****</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">-Witness the Sickness 8a (Flash) ****</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">-Green Mamba 8a ****</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">-Tea with Elmarie 8a ***</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">-Barracuda 7c+ (Flash) ***** </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">-Une rime stupide 7c+ (Flash) ***</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">-The Hatchling 7c+ (Flash) *****</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">-Hole in one 7c ***</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">-Splash of red 7c (Flash) *****</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">-King of covenience 7c ***</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">-Golden Virginia 7c ***</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">-Battle of the skink 7c (Flash) ***</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">-Caroline 7c (Flash) ***** </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">-Pinotage 7b+ (Flash) ****</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">-Ulan Bator 7b+ ****</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">-Cedar Spine 7b (Flash) *****</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">-Ron ron et caramel 7b (Flash) ***</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">- The Rhyno 7b (Flash) *****</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJEy6Uhp2DV4d-zeMiPQzmMfoko4QJLcUR1IwouYzugpHHDDehEqyVhQKtJXhqHGSU41xxCT1Nfu6FZX8RpVRcH4GlQiE3OWelIGfY2k_qpjxPMRdTk3bShLIZC_ixM5005gHqY38JQZZm/s1600/Armed+Response+8a%252B+Andre.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJEy6Uhp2DV4d-zeMiPQzmMfoko4QJLcUR1IwouYzugpHHDDehEqyVhQKtJXhqHGSU41xxCT1Nfu6FZX8RpVRcH4GlQiE3OWelIGfY2k_qpjxPMRdTk3bShLIZC_ixM5005gHqY38JQZZm/s640/Armed+Response+8a%252B+Andre.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Armed Response 8a+ Ph. Marco Zanone</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZXOauMcqxwGLPnC_ZOmC0KzmIKvSZMDjKw9sBzboFWIRjq9xVjTRo0dXF0vNMCqJdakDn_THYun09sHQ8kVjxn4mZHD4Lv4Pta-pCE12OeenbsXrUuArVkNiF0J0VSK3JT3c-0XzlnidQ/s1600/Black+Shadow+8a%252B+Andre.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZXOauMcqxwGLPnC_ZOmC0KzmIKvSZMDjKw9sBzboFWIRjq9xVjTRo0dXF0vNMCqJdakDn_THYun09sHQ8kVjxn4mZHD4Lv4Pta-pCE12OeenbsXrUuArVkNiF0J0VSK3JT3c-0XzlnidQ/s640/Black+Shadow+8a%252B+Andre.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Black Shadow 8a+ Ph. Marco Zanone</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg56zswQgFfpiGTSunlvvJJVlvJ0RSy2hMPglmpOMbRyAgTYDT-UM6yKoGASH4-GE_Vq5Yl4WAD0U2ROG2rX2Zu9alUJtN71VOaCvVizZ1JnGEbYV58SDSjqvUplTZDxMXsx_byg0e8bMl3/s1600/Green+Mamba+8A%252B+Andrea.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg56zswQgFfpiGTSunlvvJJVlvJ0RSy2hMPglmpOMbRyAgTYDT-UM6yKoGASH4-GE_Vq5Yl4WAD0U2ROG2rX2Zu9alUJtN71VOaCvVizZ1JnGEbYV58SDSjqvUplTZDxMXsx_byg0e8bMl3/s640/Green+Mamba+8A%252B+Andrea.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Green Mamba 8a Ph. Marco Zanone</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBA93wRTs84__-YNLhjdheDDTG_Lvz1N5DkvVwBIU1D5KIDuHDH6mlhcBk9p4OobiBBZnPA8GB_pHwjUcx7ybZy_F2xWS9t2oR-Yh6ZLcrRIjL63w9pZiF7oZX_eYo8Y4pMc57n42wbkpO/s1600/IMG_20150604_193722.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBA93wRTs84__-YNLhjdheDDTG_Lvz1N5DkvVwBIU1D5KIDuHDH6mlhcBk9p4OobiBBZnPA8GB_pHwjUcx7ybZy_F2xWS9t2oR-Yh6ZLcrRIjL63w9pZiF7oZX_eYo8Y4pMc57n42wbkpO/s640/IMG_20150604_193722.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Caroline 7c Ph. Marco Zanone</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinl8h5BNnCCgJ6FgRLUsbcFm8n8Zu1CCBKuYx2nod3t0jqglqvDsR12DFbTxX_m0UAlTW0dzfeKuVJmjLDF_M0NUsxXqLn2jX1m-WHAau1VaG05ZG1fbgofx1kC55f7bQygA7H7miX5X2L/s1600/IMG_20150610_184608.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinl8h5BNnCCgJ6FgRLUsbcFm8n8Zu1CCBKuYx2nod3t0jqglqvDsR12DFbTxX_m0UAlTW0dzfeKuVJmjLDF_M0NUsxXqLn2jX1m-WHAau1VaG05ZG1fbgofx1kC55f7bQygA7H7miX5X2L/s640/IMG_20150610_184608.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The power of one 8a+ Ph. Marco Zanone </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrlAJlIvd2_smU_y_9-e4Zq_MpR1j9dyXTQNVKi0ScOOZ2o7Q8_ZsX1jYy4yDbuACgqUHe83JjzvoYE7BM57SdD1XB2QwRopGcV1yyVCctRY6kVehM0d03fe8p775NHJWZHI2ht-pn-cby/s1600/IMG_20150614_201410.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrlAJlIvd2_smU_y_9-e4Zq_MpR1j9dyXTQNVKi0ScOOZ2o7Q8_ZsX1jYy4yDbuACgqUHe83JjzvoYE7BM57SdD1XB2QwRopGcV1yyVCctRY6kVehM0d03fe8p775NHJWZHI2ht-pn-cby/s640/IMG_20150614_201410.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Hatchling 8a Ph. Marco Zanone </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVjJDm2eRyuX-rs6SfxI2yxRRl-JPJjUY53GKhOibiQTkhxV44rPCa7MzETDbz4AdfCH9UxOa4DbMr5RQdjV2ixn6oiGFrxUnWVSrKm-x5-m7CCpuETaqjPv04PGHLgAG9sAdMG2Qvfb3q/s1600/IMG_20150629_181456.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVjJDm2eRyuX-rs6SfxI2yxRRl-JPJjUY53GKhOibiQTkhxV44rPCa7MzETDbz4AdfCH9UxOa4DbMr5RQdjV2ixn6oiGFrxUnWVSrKm-x5-m7CCpuETaqjPv04PGHLgAG9sAdMG2Qvfb3q/s640/IMG_20150629_181456.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">El Corazon 8b Ph. Marco Zanone</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvTg_vQBTyIqPl0CqrnAmC0OKHP7XXGthRRMZir8dAJUBZ5_CtVSjOn4llAENfgGtnL4Qbt5zUYyF5Z_Fkj78j_AXH_kuj5yM0BzqeSPHFAAo7jjrSWjnFzSPVTnzPVc2uPza8EjUVIO0d/s1600/Moostie+Maise+8B+Andre.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvTg_vQBTyIqPl0CqrnAmC0OKHP7XXGthRRMZir8dAJUBZ5_CtVSjOn4llAENfgGtnL4Qbt5zUYyF5Z_Fkj78j_AXH_kuj5yM0BzqeSPHFAAo7jjrSWjnFzSPVTnzPVc2uPza8EjUVIO0d/s640/Moostie+Maise+8B+Andre.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mooiste meisie 8b Ph. Marco Zanone</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1zcI2UjOQT0HrpHmuDRqcO-rZaAB2EIS_-WUv_RAhkJwMHuZalHv75TpjBb1l_D6wuS2WMni4gEZaenLp75PfJNOeCXjW6Ra4J368dhbHpr_qsTFp2xOAwE8-EPyo8mS4grECJk5882ws/s1600/Shosholosa+8a+Andre.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1zcI2UjOQT0HrpHmuDRqcO-rZaAB2EIS_-WUv_RAhkJwMHuZalHv75TpjBb1l_D6wuS2WMni4gEZaenLp75PfJNOeCXjW6Ra4J368dhbHpr_qsTFp2xOAwE8-EPyo8mS4grECJk5882ws/s640/Shosholosa+8a+Andre.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Shosholoza 8a Ph. Marco Zanone</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPnc440k30mK1F3aKUsVFIjrieff-vjoXm0MAkXUlHqAQtIt7hDJLe2011wr_9RltpW65DEsciXoy5G3KGjPkWWZVckHH85wpAp_zdCnPSNCgSlpLEthcVWNfUCGjMz0mx5ry5xtLT-coB/s1600/The+Vice+8B+Andre.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPnc440k30mK1F3aKUsVFIjrieff-vjoXm0MAkXUlHqAQtIt7hDJLe2011wr_9RltpW65DEsciXoy5G3KGjPkWWZVckHH85wpAp_zdCnPSNCgSlpLEthcVWNfUCGjMz0mx5ry5xtLT-coB/s640/The+Vice+8B+Andre.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Vice 8b Ph. Marco Zanone</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUKmtRsRVh39tDG1ba4i37OK8p2GObmtpFSzTr7kor5sN_Je9tzLe7I5OVM8zLUoragkAXim0LHk60vC441ZhS33TNkd_ruQQcYVJtorPjq0jDDhmriE8sibdBh4KzYdzS6MNzJmoyuFa8/s1600/Rocklands.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUKmtRsRVh39tDG1ba4i37OK8p2GObmtpFSzTr7kor5sN_Je9tzLe7I5OVM8zLUoragkAXim0LHk60vC441ZhS33TNkd_ruQQcYVJtorPjq0jDDhmriE8sibdBh4KzYdzS6MNzJmoyuFa8/s640/Rocklands.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rocklands Ph. Marco Zanone</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpKDeWI3MC68fBNzht0-yduil8mL0kiYWSho0YswQgtwylGN1PUsIpu0wek6BdHnDS16PlU3V7xSL0qtiDODO3WEsweYMkeNih_d2mqPF8gTr92QZZbL5BVVdoQ7f4RiPap-NJKYHmdZTj/s1600/Nebbia+su+roadside.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="398" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpKDeWI3MC68fBNzht0-yduil8mL0kiYWSho0YswQgtwylGN1PUsIpu0wek6BdHnDS16PlU3V7xSL0qtiDODO3WEsweYMkeNih_d2mqPF8gTr92QZZbL5BVVdoQ7f4RiPap-NJKYHmdZTj/s640/Nebbia+su+roadside.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Roadside sector Ph. Marco Zanone</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjk7pWCNUX_avyiASgnQy4IjBCfx2QYlMxGnV6syq_7mXdNJbJw0R3WPavsBgCJ4E2q_HX330tGung9W4b6ttfjZtcMwzJLRoF2-fcCr3xmq8xe317WVdlJGNReT2TwWB98et3vp_ho31xl/s1600/costellazione+Rocklands.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjk7pWCNUX_avyiASgnQy4IjBCfx2QYlMxGnV6syq_7mXdNJbJw0R3WPavsBgCJ4E2q_HX330tGung9W4b6ttfjZtcMwzJLRoF2-fcCr3xmq8xe317WVdlJGNReT2TwWB98et3vp_ho31xl/s640/costellazione+Rocklands.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stars Ph. Marco Zanone</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBZYE1oESPuj2Xp-4_XZVbfZYlthfdahSjy3qUTBZ8ZDg2Hl3jS2KE9JbnrcB0BHsJYx0WEObRvw2AmWEmVWNZON4npUu38VXffnfHBr3S7pFceYyezkHZb0QP4fHddMTtYwKwlZS9tGIn/s1600/The+rhino+7b%252B+Andre.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBZYE1oESPuj2Xp-4_XZVbfZYlthfdahSjy3qUTBZ8ZDg2Hl3jS2KE9JbnrcB0BHsJYx0WEObRvw2AmWEmVWNZON4npUu38VXffnfHBr3S7pFceYyezkHZb0QP4fHddMTtYwKwlZS9tGIn/s640/The+rhino+7b%252B+Andre.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Rhyno 7b+ Ph. Marco Zanone</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />AndreaZanonehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07755444194137851372noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5825447574890948206.post-52630199657320143812015-10-17T12:51:00.000+02:002015-10-17T12:51:22.303+02:00Swiss is freaking awesome <!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Ticino is my favourite boulder spot during the winter
season, it is quite near from my home (2,30 h) this year was the sixth winter
in a row, I usually spent there one day a week to climb on perfect granite
boulders.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I spent as
usual some days trying interesting lines like</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">-Miss Schweiz 7c+</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">-Wrap Artist 8a</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">-Blochx Addiction 8a </span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">-Second Life 8a</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">- Conquistador 8a+</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjY8XXR8yCz3Qd3WuVWCHVJPi_mLeWlRVbfZiBjBMUgo_YrFaKXvm9YvZRq0ARr9ppPue9hRMJSr5eV8JRrxaLcRUrpxCQh59bWdmE3qJr6Gy4h-T-9mcNF0Bh_4W0MdDOYwbw-ppNg1b70/s1600/Second+life+8a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjY8XXR8yCz3Qd3WuVWCHVJPi_mLeWlRVbfZiBjBMUgo_YrFaKXvm9YvZRq0ARr9ppPue9hRMJSr5eV8JRrxaLcRUrpxCQh59bWdmE3qJr6Gy4h-T-9mcNF0Bh_4W0MdDOYwbw-ppNg1b70/s640/Second+life+8a.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Second Life 8a Ph. Marco Zanone</td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 14.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">But this year was different, I
felt myself ready for new “experiences” trying something harder to understand
how my mind and my body work at the limit of my possibilities and to see that
my training period has been paid off.</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 14.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>One day in December<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Marco, Bazoo and I checked Boogalagga all
togheter, one of aesthetic line I saw in Chironico. It is composed by 6/7 moves
on all kind of holds like pinches, crimps, pockets, hell hoks and toe
hooks...incredible! The first move is surely the crux of the boulder. You have
to start with the LH on a quite good pinch and the RH on a crimp and squeeze to
high the feet. The LF is in the middle on a little sloper under the pinch and
with the RF you have to be really precise to put in the best way a strange hell
hook on a slopy crimp and do a dynamic move to catch a painfull two fingers
pocket with the RH. In the first three days of work on it I felt really good on
the upper part but the first move cause me some difficulties to find the right
body position and make the first move as much precise as I could.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-SxF3ZhtASsjSEH6QEpe9-ghCnux53GJNjNn6VgM6o_PxrSdRXxV9g6Mze9e8JdklSrHvFAmbLkWt4ClUThwCSVRQjfjE5ZOUS4Co6-kxGdPUyp5_pcK2GcJW5MNmDw7R0v-NIns3pXX6/s1600/Kuerzi150407-7176.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-SxF3ZhtASsjSEH6QEpe9-ghCnux53GJNjNn6VgM6o_PxrSdRXxV9g6Mze9e8JdklSrHvFAmbLkWt4ClUThwCSVRQjfjE5ZOUS4Co6-kxGdPUyp5_pcK2GcJW5MNmDw7R0v-NIns3pXX6/s640/Kuerzi150407-7176.jpg" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Boogalagga 8b Ph.Stefan Kuerzi</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 14.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">March the 8<sup>th</sup> I
came back in Chironico with the friends: Gabri, Bazoo, Max and my brother Marco
after a good warm up in Schattentall sector we moved to Boogalagga, the
conditions was perfect, I also remember that the snow covered some shadow part
under the boulder, the cold was essential for me!</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal;">
<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 14.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">My shape was really good that
day, I was able to climb the upper part really easy in the first go of the day,
I immediately focused all the energies on the first move!</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 14.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I felt that something has changed that the
start position suited me more “comfortable” than the before session. After good
tries, I grabbed the pocket for the first time but immediately the hell hook
slipped...”fack man, what happend?! I thought after the fail, I was really
close what a bummer!” But at the same time I realised “today could be the right
day, I can repeat the first move for sure, i had to be focused on the position
and relaxed at the same time” these was the only words that I repeat in my mind
for all the tries after the best one.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6wKW0xw2NIf6xdN6mcjbMm_OF95kUW6U5rCZ18LxwcvpWsm3-20822_b-USTlkaVo5EaBYNAJqhtgdfnJRDTxsALjJJV58LRkP5W56fP_AwcTUEsY_4wdKgQ5PmbFCYcsAfFl_jxVJlFi/s1600/Kuerzi150407-7102.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6wKW0xw2NIf6xdN6mcjbMm_OF95kUW6U5rCZ18LxwcvpWsm3-20822_b-USTlkaVo5EaBYNAJqhtgdfnJRDTxsALjJJV58LRkP5W56fP_AwcTUEsY_4wdKgQ5PmbFCYcsAfFl_jxVJlFi/s640/Kuerzi150407-7102.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Boogalagga 8b Ph.Stefan Kuerzi</td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 14.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">After a bit of rest, Bazoo
made a increadible go, sending Boogalagga with a perfect climbing! What a beast
dude?!? I was so happy for he and he gave me the right motivation and energy to
crush the boulder!</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal;">
<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 14.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">I put my shoes, I chalked my
hands, I took a breath and I started...I squeeze the starting holds and I
grabbed the pocket for the second time “wow” the focusing was extremely high
and for all the moves I took a big breath, when I locked the last crimp I
realised what I climbed....my little dream of this place, my harder boulder, my
second 8B! and when I found myself at top all the vibes and the feelings spent
under that beast caused me special sense of happiness and satisfaction for my
performance. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Incredible two ascents in
less than 10 min! Thanks all my buddies to gave me right feelings, the support
and motivations to complete this important personal step for me! </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOTyMpVc99YwOTuD47od6jZHO-ZPQ_Qz5-CBMt5r4-Goq1l748lXg6yYqL_nJAS7n9jtHOY4Mzu1COEDMlZGe3XtmCqOb-ioInF9O5r_0y_7APvyzBtVpgwhl1aDHD2Nw2Nu60DUiL_sCu/s1600/Kuerzi150407-7132.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOTyMpVc99YwOTuD47od6jZHO-ZPQ_Qz5-CBMt5r4-Goq1l748lXg6yYqL_nJAS7n9jtHOY4Mzu1COEDMlZGe3XtmCqOb-ioInF9O5r_0y_7APvyzBtVpgwhl1aDHD2Nw2Nu60DUiL_sCu/s640/Kuerzi150407-7132.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Boogalagga 8b Ph.Stefan Kuerzi</td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 14.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">The Ticino season ended as
every year too early, so we decided to spent one day in one of the coolest spot
for bouldering during the spring/summer period, Magic Wood.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal;">
<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 14.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">I felt in love with this place
from the first time, The environment is awesome, the wood is composed by
conifers and bluberry plants <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>and also
the style of<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>of climbing and the rock
quality are relly good!</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 14.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">In September I tried
Electroboogie 8a/+ so we moved togheter under this line to make some attempts!
The conditions were a bit warm so I had some difficulties to make the harder
moves on slopers. I figure out all the moves again and after some great tries
falling with the last slopy-pinch with the LH, I was able to crush it and put
in my pocket another amazing line of this wood.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwASn4x_SBIr-t468r04t2zAmVIMH9R6m-T7MGNtnohszzN8GUF_EhXYM-TcKtzNkrn9x1wOcAqHkSByyhpWoG6m1PqwcO0Upzs5-1JKKbwPPLuQVt0YaLtOZ8wTUGrQD9dA97cLuwqjnG/s1600/Electrobogie+8a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="438" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwASn4x_SBIr-t468r04t2zAmVIMH9R6m-T7MGNtnohszzN8GUF_EhXYM-TcKtzNkrn9x1wOcAqHkSByyhpWoG6m1PqwcO0Upzs5-1JKKbwPPLuQVt0YaLtOZ8wTUGrQD9dA97cLuwqjnG/s640/Electrobogie+8a.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Electroboogie 8a/+ Ph. Marco Zanone</td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 14.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">I the afternoon I tried
Steppenwolf 8a+/b, I was really satisfied because in just one session I was
able to make all the moves quite well and link the moves all togheter without
the first move, for me the crux of the boulder! </span>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal;">
<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 14.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">To finish my energies I tried
Riverbed, I was too tired but I was satisfied to climb in one shot all the
harder part and understand that it could be<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>one of my proj for the next tim. </span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 16.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;">The Frankenjura is the place I visited most this
year, I spent almost one month there everytime with Gabri Moroni and my
brother, visiting the amazing environment and climbing on that weird kind of
limestone.</span><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 16.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;"></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 16.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;">I love that style of climbing, short and intense
routes on small pockets, but this time was different I wanted to focus primary on a hard proj and in the meanwhile climb on easy stuff.</span><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 16.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;"></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 16.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;">My project was “Penumbral Solar Eclipse” graded 8c
situated in a really small crag with just 3 routes, one 9a open by Markus Boch, an 8a+ and the 8c that is the link of this 2 routes </span><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 16.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;"></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 16.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;">P.S.E start like the 8a+ and then after 3 quickdraws it
goes right just under a big roof where is situated the crux of the route
composed by an amazing swing from two good pinches and a big move from a weird
undercling to a good edge almost at the end of the wall where you can clip the chain.</span></div>
<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 16.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;">I tried it for the first time the day before we moved
to Stuggart for the Adidas Rock Stars, but just to try the moves and figure out the beta for the days after the comp but I had really difficulties to grab the fucking edge.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLD84_4J0fJXebyRHGM8vIqtHzc7n0dLBoqw4G6NJVuuvh1O2_aanZGx0pCOL17OduEnJlgIAt28AWSXTb4IyzA2gU3fxraVcu5thyphenhyphen9tG36gMIApLXsB-oWmvSTufQHhftHqDzQ1jG75sR/s1600/Penumbral+Solar+eclipse+8c.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLD84_4J0fJXebyRHGM8vIqtHzc7n0dLBoqw4G6NJVuuvh1O2_aanZGx0pCOL17OduEnJlgIAt28AWSXTb4IyzA2gU3fxraVcu5thyphenhyphen9tG36gMIApLXsB-oWmvSTufQHhftHqDzQ1jG75sR/s1600/Penumbral+Solar+eclipse+8c.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Penumbral Solar Eclipse Pic. Marco Znone</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 16.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;"> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto;">
<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 16.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;">In Stuggart I took part in the “Gore-tex be a
Rockstar” competition, not the real one "Adidas Rock Stars" but it was one of the
best amateur competition I did in my career! I was a bit stressed during the
competition beacuse I was in the 2nd round so I knew how many mistakes and how many boulder problems I had to do to get into the first three positions and took part in the finals!</span><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 16.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;"></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 16.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;">I climbed 6 problems over 8 but in too many tries so I
finished in 5th position. I was disappointed but happy at the same time to have
climbed in that competition with many strong guys. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto;">
<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 16.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;">The day after I saw the
offical competition as a spectator and it was super funny and emotional.</span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtrIE9pH1aCaZu7_pQ5gEV2DzLu-jr9-nTZPNYl7c93-tyL5O3F5-P3d0F-oxS_HjkKEbe8gy3vjMKnT7rPCG4uMqjOF8RQv_a9lyxJ6IXgdEJMZym92FK7ZSS9zfTeN2DiT8qOrOVEEh0/s1600/stoccarda.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtrIE9pH1aCaZu7_pQ5gEV2DzLu-jr9-nTZPNYl7c93-tyL5O3F5-P3d0F-oxS_HjkKEbe8gy3vjMKnT7rPCG4uMqjOF8RQv_a9lyxJ6IXgdEJMZym92FK7ZSS9zfTeN2DiT8qOrOVEEh0/s1600/stoccarda.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> Gore-tex Be a Rockstar Jam Session Pic. Christian Waldegger</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto;">
<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 16.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;">After 4 days in Stuttgard we came back to Franken for other ten
days, I climbed two routes that gave me positive thought like “Bastard” 8a+ 2nd
go open by J.Moffat in the 1989 featured by just one hard move to grab a good
pockect, the name say everything, and “Spiderman” 8a+ also on my 2nd attempt sending this 2 hard testpieces in two
hours.</span><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 16.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto;">
<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 16.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I tried for
other 3 days the proj but everytime the big move cause me serious problems so I
started to be nervous and stressed about that move so I decided to leave the route for a while and take some days of rest! My motivation in that days was so low so I
climbed on easiest routes but I had hard problems to focused my mind on
climbing, I was completely off and exhaust. After a couple of days we went to check
Maximilian Wande sector, one of the best spot in my opinion, where, in May, I
tried “Boiling Point” 8b, but I fell off at the very last move. This time was another story and I took down this classic on my 2nd go of the day and a bit of motivation came back.</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 16.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;">In the
afternoon Gabri wanted to try the 9a next to my project because he was so closed on it,
so I decided to make one try on the 8c</span><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 16.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto;">
<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 16.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;">My mind during the effort was really free and without
pressure so I grab the crux hold in the best way and finally I managed to keep
the swing, lock the undercling and stick the edge! I was so incredulous and with a scream of joy I clipped the
chain! Everything went in the best way and I couldn't describe my happiness and my satisfaction, for all
the day I got a big smile on my face and that strange sensations of weakness
and the low motivation was blown away.</span><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 16.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto;">
<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 16.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;">In the last days of the trip I was really tired, I had
bad skin and my muscels were really destroyed so I climbed everyday but just for
the pleasure of climbing trying as many routes as I could. </span><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 16.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto;">
<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 16.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;">Surely the Frankenjura will be a place on my list for
the next years because I have a lot of routes that one day I would like to
climb.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto;">
<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 16.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;">See ya the next! </span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBvLpUMFj6di3nuq416u1SW8JXUVFIaqC2sXc3Uit2hkbIpGO6NtExW7NveYKHhu6xIlO_B5anCGUffegVc9lK_neL6O-dK1SOu6pGNgbimzPoC-qn8d4OYovD51pLnW3q_xrwyHn704Vy/s1600/IMG_20140927_142922.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBvLpUMFj6di3nuq416u1SW8JXUVFIaqC2sXc3Uit2hkbIpGO6NtExW7NveYKHhu6xIlO_B5anCGUffegVc9lK_neL6O-dK1SOu6pGNgbimzPoC-qn8d4OYovD51pLnW3q_xrwyHn704Vy/s1600/IMG_20140927_142922.jpg" height="320" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Forest </td></tr>
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<br /></div>
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<br /></div>
AndreaZanonehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07755444194137851372noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5825447574890948206.post-91649803242616429002014-12-02T22:20:00.000+01:002014-12-02T22:28:02.539+01:00Lucky Man 8c<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">It’s long time
from my last blog, but now I have a good reason to write again. I want to
explaine my summer season in my favourite crag in Aosta Valley, precisely in
Gressoney, called La Benedizione.</span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8EnW_6fYccWljsOqIIaFndkyCg5TmQ7UCMlJYrTCCoHXfmQJBaRMCwiuXQdJp2Bz36kBwJPVji1vF0wK3ggki3soUOGryQ7mexzYHmQUcO33ej82T5KUzliKmvVj8cCy_2wmv7Kk6pDur/s1600/Monkee+Catalog+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8EnW_6fYccWljsOqIIaFndkyCg5TmQ7UCMlJYrTCCoHXfmQJBaRMCwiuXQdJp2Bz36kBwJPVji1vF0wK3ggki3soUOGryQ7mexzYHmQUcO33ej82T5KUzliKmvVj8cCy_2wmv7Kk6pDur/s1600/Monkee+Catalog+1.jpg" height="364" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">La Benedizione<br />
Pic. Pierre Zanone </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The “season”
start in June just after the trip in Frankenjura. So I was really psyched to
start seriously the sport climbing period in fact I had in mind to try “Lucky
Man 8c” my first 8c ever tried. Since that day I felt in love with this route
and each day of climbing on it, I felt<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>my self more and more obsessed and motivated to come back to try it again.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">At the end
of June I spent 4 days trying it and everytime I felt a little bit closer and
all the moves seemed to be easier since I started to assimilate the hardest
part of the route and to get confidence on it.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">During the
month of July I was really busy with training for the competitions so I spent a
lot of time in the gyms. I climbed just two days on easy stuffs in the Valley
and 4 days in Magic Wood but “Lucky Man” was completely stuck in my mind. In
the first days of August I took part in a Italian National meeting in Arco to
train for the World Championship in Munich but in the first day I did a strange
move and I felt a strong pain on my left biceps so I had to stop climbing for a
couple. The day after I was really sad because my left arm was<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>weak and the pain was stronger that the day
before.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">After Arco I
took some days of rest for the left arm but in the week end I went to Gressoney
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>to touch some rock again and to see how
my biceps was. During the warm up I felt it ok but when I decided to try some
harder stuff the pain returned again.</span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTN6JULMOtLLco6ql5xImX6bvLaT5EzGjzGUVhFaxl1zPtAXVVEYDjeJ_J_frPaL4dx1S66E2WcVysi-EbhYxDXOl_HjovGPi2lNd5aPCbOlA-tLKXzYHV0pTfH-Br89DQfVjQpzGMHI6w/s1600/Devil+and+dust+8a+.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTN6JULMOtLLco6ql5xImX6bvLaT5EzGjzGUVhFaxl1zPtAXVVEYDjeJ_J_frPaL4dx1S66E2WcVysi-EbhYxDXOl_HjovGPi2lNd5aPCbOlA-tLKXzYHV0pTfH-Br89DQfVjQpzGMHI6w/s1600/Devil+and+dust+8a+.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Devils and Dust 8a+( i.m.o. one the the best routes in this cliff)<br />
Pic. Marco Zanone</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">August the
12, Gabri, Stephan and I were ready to spent 10 days around Frankenjura crags
but mainly for training in climbing gym to get train for World Championship in
Munich. We checked some fantastic gyms in Munich and Numberg like: Boulderwelt,
E4 and Cafè Kraft but my injury was still alive driving me crazy during the
training sesh, so I wasn’t able to train as hard as I expected.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">During the
qualifications round of the World Championship<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>seemed that the injury was heal but somehow I was not able to express my
best so I did a quite terrible competition. I have to say that the boulders
were way harder than a normal World cup comp and I was defintely not enough strong
the solve even one problem; I was really proud to be there anyway. It was an awesome
experience.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">When I came
back to Germany, I finally had the time to go to Gressoney to try my project
again.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">In the first
day of trying I was in great shape and the conditions was perfect. I did my
best attempt on “Lucky Man” falling ,at the very last move, with the first
rest-point <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>in front of my eyes… what a
pity! </span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiP1YCN7mZKEgr3t2RraGUjpwyJv6M4ynMfX7QU_BHc6sMXj9JLj1Bs1wnqIRRz-7eIqyoBuNwxejR4-lD4Id-tzRf9G7D89Fb2uVS0dmIp0_UuqJ9T5wzVpcP3ReH1GUB-xlyIUQ_6MqUP/s1600/Lucky+Man+(Gressoney%2BValley)%2C%2BMonkee%2BCatalog%2B7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiP1YCN7mZKEgr3t2RraGUjpwyJv6M4ynMfX7QU_BHc6sMXj9JLj1Bs1wnqIRRz-7eIqyoBuNwxejR4-lD4Id-tzRf9G7D89Fb2uVS0dmIp0_UuqJ9T5wzVpcP3ReH1GUB-xlyIUQ_6MqUP/s1600/Lucky+Man+(Gressoney%2BValley)%2C%2BMonkee%2BCatalog%2B7.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Marco Zanone on the second crux of Lucky Man<br />
Pic. Pierre Zanone</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><br />
I started to understand that this thing was possible even with my poor
endurance.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">I came back
in Gressoney<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>with my family during the
week end, the conditions were a bit warmer that the previous days but I was
quite hopeful and super syked. I climbed <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>two easy route for warming up and then I felt
ready for the first try because I have not real expectations since the warm
up<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>is everytime not enough to try hard
on such an hard route. I started to climb and moves by moves <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I
grabbed the rest-point , I shaked up my arms and then I started for the
endurance part, the feelings was quite good but after 20 moves I got pumped in
just one second ,because my forearms were not ready enough to struggle, so I
locked as hard as I could the last crimp before the second rest-point but I was
too tired and I fell down. I was like incredulous and I started to scream every
kind of words came to my mind.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">When I touch
the ground I was switch off and for about 30 min I didn’t speak with anybody, my<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>mind and my body were completely destroyed. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">I thought <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>alot about the possibilities <span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>I had to climb it on the second go after this
big effort but the sun was coming so I had to get a try. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">I took two
big breaths and I started my ascent, I climbed the first part quite fast and I
got the rest-point again and in mind I said “wow, how is possible?” I
focused<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>my last mental energies for the
endurance part and I climbed really fast until the second rest-point (where I
felt the try before), everything went in the right way and finally I grabbed
the jug. I had some difficulties to reach the chain because I was really really
pumped and tired but when clip the chain any kind of effort and hard work
turned into happiness and satisfaction, MY BEST MENTAL BATTLE WAS OVER! I
couldn’t describe my joy, a little dream came true.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was a pleasure share this magic moment with
my brother and my family, thanks everybody <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>for the big support and also a big thanks to Alberto Gnerro for having bolted all these amazing routes</span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4q79IF6sgwjbzMHrWJqRuJ1JFk8QrjbvS-mqNfVeKHyNB5CMAyfGQvmmaJHkFnQbpJ6TNdnvSXh6cl9Y4apgrblz1TDdL8eDtwcmhZelLAhdVE6kiMyBxZGXSxAvDL8ftIBb8JA_m5Iqo/s1600/Lucky+Man+8c.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4q79IF6sgwjbzMHrWJqRuJ1JFk8QrjbvS-mqNfVeKHyNB5CMAyfGQvmmaJHkFnQbpJ6TNdnvSXh6cl9Y4apgrblz1TDdL8eDtwcmhZelLAhdVE6kiMyBxZGXSxAvDL8ftIBb8JA_m5Iqo/s1600/Lucky+Man+8c.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">the first crux of Lucky Man<br />
Pic. Francesco Longhini </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
AndreaZanonehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07755444194137851372noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5825447574890948206.post-82481091667641081512014-06-21T16:28:00.001+02:002014-06-21T16:28:14.950+02:00Old spring memories<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%;">A lot of
time is past from my last blog, so I decide to write something about my last
boulder experiences in Swiss and in some spots close to my home.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The first
one was in Magic Wood, where I always like spend days in this special place for
me because I love so much this kind of environment and many things there, make
me happy. I climbed two days here with my friends Gabri, Marco and my brother,
the conditions was really good, it was cold and the fiction was perfect. I was
able to climb some great lines like “Muttertag” and “Jack’s broken heart” both
8a in the first day and “Right hand of darkness” 7c+ in the second day but my
real project was “Riverbed”.</span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg33mRi2WXgkwE687ovGH_6YdgwYpSAqH7qgnn8Qk3xyV8q5P7XsadShOgKpha_wShO4-0Goynb-5h3jpmET6KB-DzI08yB8iBM9c-mc93FSMXld3komJcYwNdlFg4Mfip16_9FOQX4andF/s1600/Muttertag+8a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg33mRi2WXgkwE687ovGH_6YdgwYpSAqH7qgnn8Qk3xyV8q5P7XsadShOgKpha_wShO4-0Goynb-5h3jpmET6KB-DzI08yB8iBM9c-mc93FSMXld3komJcYwNdlFg4Mfip16_9FOQX4andF/s1600/Muttertag+8a.jpg" height="432" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Muttertag</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%;">I spent some hours to figure out my beta and I
did good attempts from the bottom but I wasn’t able to climb it so it is still
a proj. I hope to come back here this summer to climb again on this great
granite rock.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Ten days
later Magic Wood I went in new place for me,situated in Aosta Valley called
Ussel. It is a small spot but there are some interesting lines. In my opinion
the best boulder here is "Amelie", a beautiful 7b+ arete composed by compression
moves and hell hooks work, after having cleaned it from the dirt of the winter,
I flashed it. The second line I climbed was “The Butterfly Effect” 7c+, I found
a new beta, in my opinion more logical and way easier so I think the grade is
around 7b+ . After that I found new version of “TBE” that start the same and
than <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>it turn to the right, so I chalked
up all the “new” holds and I started to try the moves. After 20 minutes of work
I maked the FA and I called it “The Stoners” graded 7c.</span><br />
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%;">In the first
days of May my friend Valerio from Rome went to my home to spent one week of
climbing with us. He hadn’t never seen the famous spot of bouldering in Ticino
called Chironico so we decided to bring Valerio even if the conditions were
warm.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%;">We spent the
morning in Boogalagga sector where I climbed "Scholonziges Weiner Schmankerl" 7c+
and “Trip to London” 6c+ an amazing high boulder featured by really technical
moves on little crimps and slopy feet.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In
the afternoon we moved to Nivo Bassa sector where I sent “Arabald” 7b, “The
Loneliness of a long distance runner” 7b+/c but my biggest effort of the day
was the flash of “Fat Boy” 7c+ a cool problem composed by tricky moves like toe
hooks and knee locks. </span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhI6hUNgBpvC9Bd1jamXlNBlybbiwaVPzSIvINEhvTVQz61X0sUtnwjFKAeR_xdr78bPVqFP30_kaAClcZkldEThGynpzF_sU9d15U9drlQf0H8p2VKUoEDxFXlsiE1Wk2P6-aDmDJawRBd/s1600/7c%252B+chironico.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhI6hUNgBpvC9Bd1jamXlNBlybbiwaVPzSIvINEhvTVQz61X0sUtnwjFKAeR_xdr78bPVqFP30_kaAClcZkldEThGynpzF_sU9d15U9drlQf0H8p2VKUoEDxFXlsiE1Wk2P6-aDmDJawRBd/s1600/7c%252B+chironico.jpg" height="411" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Scholonziges Weiner Schmankerl, Boogalagga sector.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%;">In the
middle part of May the temperature became warmer but I was still motivated for
bouldering, so I decided to visit the coldest spot in Aosta Valley called
Champorcher where you can climb <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>during
the summer with fresh conditions. In the low sector I did the hardest 7b ever
called “Cochese Night” and also a scary highball called “ Santa Monica
Boulevard” 7a. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%;">In the other
two days that I spent here I had the pleasure to visit a new sector in the high
part of the bouldering area where Niccolò Ceria and some friends discovered new
cool lines. I climbed <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>“Rubik” 7c,
“Paradise Lost 7b+”, “Q*bert” 7c and “Under the carpet” 7c/c+ </span><br />
</div>
<span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Now it’s
time to take the rope for some sport climbing, I’m trying "Lucky man" 8c<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>in Gressoney and I’m really psyched to come
back on the proj<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>but before I have to
focused on plastic train for the last World Cup boulder in Laval(FRA) at the
end of June and for the next Italian bouldering competitions in July and
August. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span>AndreaZanonehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07755444194137851372noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5825447574890948206.post-5724730870439608522014-06-21T15:37:00.002+02:002014-06-21T15:38:08.372+02:00One week in Frankenjura<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The
Frankenjura was in mind for a long period, I had the desire to be in contact
with this environment and this style of climbing but I never<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>had the opportunity to visit it. One evening
Gabri Moroni sent me a message and he asked to my brother and I if we are
interested to spend one week in Frankenjura. We were super sycked and motivated
to leave again from the boring routine days, so we accepted the Gabri’s request
so Gabri, Marco, Ema and me prepared the stuffs and we left for the Germany.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%;">After six hour
of car we were in Frankenjura, the sun was shining but we still not too tired
so we decided to climb some routes to test the new kind of rock. We opted for
Eldorado sector because it is very close to the flat that we rent. This crag is
featured by a small steep wall just above a playground area. “No more
babysitting for neurotic girl today” <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>was
our first route because it was the easiest one; then we move without fear on
“Nightmare” a famous<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>8b composed by only
9 moves on pockets.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%;">In the firts
go I menaged to climb all the single moves but I felt a bit tired from the long
trip but I wanted just climbing without any expectations. On<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>my sencond go I did a mistake at the very top
of the route I felt a bit weak and tired but I wanted to get another try. At 3rd
go everything went very well and I managed to send the route. I realised that
the trip was starting in the best way so I was incredibly sycked for the next
days</span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%;"> <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTDLbvCP1nNLGCRTYCqcm8IfEBEV4kSzw836lNBjwQZ2DUG-XSgQan-dWuR07Bx3aAu1nld8dA8oJ4tpyL0ChkoIu94ufUch5WZkYWe3siYj5dbh-qD99dy-73LJhoQub-FZ2-8tgPxVc8/s1600/Nightmare+8B+Frankenjura.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTDLbvCP1nNLGCRTYCqcm8IfEBEV4kSzw836lNBjwQZ2DUG-XSgQan-dWuR07Bx3aAu1nld8dA8oJ4tpyL0ChkoIu94ufUch5WZkYWe3siYj5dbh-qD99dy-73LJhoQub-FZ2-8tgPxVc8/s1600/Nightmare+8B+Frankenjura.jpg" height="448" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nightmare, Eldorado sector.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The next day
we checked Bärenschlucht sector, that is good place close to a big camping where
a lot of families spent many days <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>to
stay in contact with nature and to practice many activities like: cycling, hiking
but grilling meat is the most important thing that they do.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We climbed two 7a for warming up and then Ema,
Marco and I looked the guidebook to find a project for the day. "Subway" 8b was
the one</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%;">This route
seems to be a sea wave so it is really steep but it is short like many routes
in Franken. it is s composed by a fantastic <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>double dyno, from a mono for the RH and a good
shoulder crimp for the LH, to a jug and then follow <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>powerful moves on pockets and little crimps. On
my<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>first tries I had difficulties to
find the right way to get the dyno and some moves in the middle part. The
weather was also not so good because just before my last try the rain come. I
started really focused and finally I did weird<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>dyno and I continued to climb all the route until the rest-jug few
meters below the chain. I shaked my forearm and with the rain that fell on my
face I clipped the chain.</span><br />
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The third
day the weather was really bad but we were so sycked to climb in all kind of
conditions so we checked Hoelzgauer sector. Our warm up was very fast but we
climbed good lines like Ostwand 7a+ and another 6 grade route.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The first
route that Gabri racommended to me to climb was "Casablanca" 8a+, a steep roof
with physical moves; I felt some moves harder then they are because I was not
enough warmed for this kind of tension moves and because this type of climbing
doesn’t siut my style very well. On my second attempt I sent it without <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>any mistake. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The day was still long so I decided to try
Ema’s proj called “Blowjob" 8a+ but it is completely different from the first
one. This route is almost vertical with<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>a cool boulder at the first two quickdraws where you have to stick a
small one finger pocket and get into a small li pfor the RH. The second part
was mostly like endurance and technical climbing on little crimps and tiny
pockets. I was able to complete also this route on my second go finishing the
day as well as it started.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%;"> <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTYbOoQwXgJdf7jgL8Qk6gSIh9o2AdaJp1yrx0iFj0j3qrPrjJC1W6K10IphZg77gWXux7NcpGfjWDjI-bVRrs5VmlrloupYpLbsvM5aQN9iTauC2bvIGFYJt27eSHSZkq83TKUD_BZGss/s1600/Casablanca+8a%252B+frankenjura%252C+Finale+Ligure.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTYbOoQwXgJdf7jgL8Qk6gSIh9o2AdaJp1yrx0iFj0j3qrPrjJC1W6K10IphZg77gWXux7NcpGfjWDjI-bVRrs5VmlrloupYpLbsvM5aQN9iTauC2bvIGFYJt27eSHSZkq83TKUD_BZGss/s1600/Casablanca+8a%252B+frankenjura%252C+Finale+Ligure.jpg" height="406" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Casablanca, Hoelzgauer sector.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The rain
didn’t seem to quite and the painful of the fingers rised so we took a rest day
in order to be ready and well rested when the weather would become better.</span><br />
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The 5th day we
woke up hopeful for good condition but the rain continued to hit the forest, so
we moved to Zwergenschloss</span><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"> </span><span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%;">sector, a quite
big cave where you can climb when it rain. I tried “Linie 1” an amazing 8b/b+,
probably one of the best routes I tried in this trip but I wasn’t in a good
shape and the conditions didn’t help me so I wasn’t able to climb it, in my
best attempt I fell in the last move of the hard section grabbing a good crimp,
I was really disappointed because I had the desire to climb that line.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The sixth
day we came back in Bärenschlucht sector because my brother wanted to try
Subway again, so I decided to try a route called “<span style="mso-bidi-font-style: italic;"><span style="text-decoration: none; text-underline: none;">Queeel Dich,
Du Sau</span>” situated in front of </span>Bärenschlucht sector, precisely
in the Erinnerungswand sector. This route is graded 8b/b+ and it’s way longer
than I was used to find there. It is a bouldery route anyway, composed by two
parts; the first one is characterized by a long bouldery sections on little
crimps and pockets than allow to join a perfect no hands rest. The final
section consists in a short boulder on small pockets with slopy feet-holds with
few pumpy moves on slopers to reach the top of the route. In my first go I felt
it hard but I was able to climb all the moves so I was so sycked for the second
go. I put up my shoes I started for the second go, my hands was a bit cold so I
climbed all the first part with some problems but with a big fight I get the
rest point anyway, I relaxed till I felt ready for climbing again. Everything
went very well, I got the last boulder and with some screams and with a forearm
super pumped I clipped the chain.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%;">I was really
surprised an unbelievable about what I was able to climb probably one of my
biggest effort. </span><br />
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The seventh
day we went to Maximilianwand sector, probably one of my favourite sector of
the trip, composed by a big number of cliffs surrounded by an amazing forest so
was increadible stay in conctact with that place. The first two routes that I
climbed was "Free Will" 7a+ and </span><span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%; text-decoration: none; text-underline: none;">"Amazonenpfeiler"</span><span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%;"> 7b <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>bolted by Wolfgang
Gullich in the 1981. Marco and I tried maybe our short route ever, an 8a+
called “Bad brain” featured by a one move only to grab quite good pocket with
the RH but Marco found a different beta, he used a heel hooking with the RF in
order to stay higher and to reach the pocket more static. I tried it with his
beta and I almost flashed it, I reached the pocket but the heel hook slipped
off so I wasn’t able to get the swing. The second go was the replay of the
firts one but in the third go I grabbed the pockets and I climbed all the
route.</span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgW8TXHKnh07A-jL8JWwWPCvPKajyk9QS1JuQFOe8k9axCakPh8lO5BlddrJy66kTHE4PS1U5AEBPvJDMoqLkJo0h6TjNVBx5Ria8n34ylKt3MMt4UliYxdtG7DnNc7U5Yw50Mxpe96cNHv/s1600/Free+Willi+7a+franken.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgW8TXHKnh07A-jL8JWwWPCvPKajyk9QS1JuQFOe8k9axCakPh8lO5BlddrJy66kTHE4PS1U5AEBPvJDMoqLkJo0h6TjNVBx5Ria8n34ylKt3MMt4UliYxdtG7DnNc7U5Yw50Mxpe96cNHv/s1600/Free+Willi+7a+franken.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Free Will, Maximilianwand sector.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
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<span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The last day
we checked Rotestein sector where there is The Essential 9a, one of the hardest
route that inspired me more. I felt really tired and with a bad skin but I was
super motivated anyway so I tried “Die Kante” 8a+ that follow a perfect
technical arete composed by crimps, pockets and pinches. In the first two
attempts I was disappointed because I wasn’t able to find my beta so I felt it
really hard. In my third go I climbed all the moves really well and I crusched
it. I was super sycked to have climbed this gem but I was sad at the same time
because I knew that this route was the last one of the trip.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%;">When I left the Germany I thought back to all of
the good moments I spent with my friends in this magic forest and the fantastic
lines I tried and climbed made me smile
again.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
AndreaZanonehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07755444194137851372noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5825447574890948206.post-50247909045135416632014-04-22T14:39:00.000+02:002014-04-22T14:39:52.301+02:00Italian Cup in Rome<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The first bouldering
Italian Cup took place in April the 16th in Rome.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">My brother
and I went to Rome the day before the competition to meet Valerio, our good
friend that live in the capital, because he was so available to offer us to
sleep in his home. He also was an excellent tour guide because he lead us
around the historical monuments that make this city fantastic.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The next
day, we woke up at 7:30 am because Valerio and Marco had to compete at 10.00 am
for the qualifications round while I had to wait till the afternoon to compete
because I was already qualified for the semifinals, it seemed<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>that the time would never pass so I was bored
and stressed to wait the semis. At 14.30 pm the isolation zone finally closed
so 25 athletes were ready to fight to get a place in the finals.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvRP5Y9fYlEtq95EECxrl0dDz4Zs1zrfa4V9_J3TAM1uKB_qjBd8MILVw0HJpGqSGvE-7P-vaMCoJP7DPDix0VFgB-NHLPENYXtSpSmI6MLA-PanBCNNsch2BdNMn1N6myh2uI5p80kI44/s1600/981697_1440898806149978_3602830315693422440_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvRP5Y9fYlEtq95EECxrl0dDz4Zs1zrfa4V9_J3TAM1uKB_qjBd8MILVw0HJpGqSGvE-7P-vaMCoJP7DPDix0VFgB-NHLPENYXtSpSmI6MLA-PanBCNNsch2BdNMn1N6myh2uI5p80kI44/s1600/981697_1440898806149978_3602830315693422440_o.jpg" height="425" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Third boulder of the final round</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Finally my
time arrived, I felt myself focused on the matters and ready to climb.There
were 4 boulder problems in the semis on different styles of climbing; the first
one consisted on really tension moves on pinches, I had some difficulties<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>to reach the bonus hold. The second one was a
technical boulder on slopy holds but I was able to flash it, so I got some
important minutes to relax a bit my body<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>and mind before to passed at the problem number 3. The third one was not
so hard and pretty much my style of climbing because it was composed of a dyno
at the start followed to two small crimps to reach the Top. I flashed this one
too. The fourth was probably the hardest and the strangest problem of the semi,
just Gabri was able to get the Top and few people was able to grab the bonus
hold.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">I was happy
for my effort but I wasn’t sure to be <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>in
the final, so I waited the charts. When the judge published it I saw that I was
in the final in the 5th positions with another athlete.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">At 18:00 pm<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>the isolations zone closed so I took my
stuffs and I reached it with the other athletes, we were six males in total: 1)
Gabriele Moroni 2) Stephan Scarperi 3) Marcello Bombardi 4) Marco Gozzi and in
5th positions Michael Piccolruaz and me.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">I was the
first athlete to compete, so after having checked the 4 boulder problems I put
my shoes to start my final round. The first one was a slab, the second one a
big dyno, the third one was a great boulder with only volumes piramid shaped
and the last one was a overhang wall with little crimps and with a dyno to the
Top.</span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi297Ri0tfO7a9lUI1AZrRcizNjyjcVyeWlDlZ-nN0Xh-TZo_bl6OjpTvAdaQOeJ7dpIlSjGE4z_CrxpgMznt3Y56LyyUfgrwMnYPgjnoYZq-g3my_M3g5wFNmza6NamIb4o2Ly1j10JVhk/s1600/A.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi297Ri0tfO7a9lUI1AZrRcizNjyjcVyeWlDlZ-nN0Xh-TZo_bl6OjpTvAdaQOeJ7dpIlSjGE4z_CrxpgMznt3Y56LyyUfgrwMnYPgjnoYZq-g3my_M3g5wFNmza6NamIb4o2Ly1j10JVhk/s1600/A.jpg" height="424" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fourth boulder of the final round</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">In the first
one I was completely unable to start so I took zero points, the second one was
the dyno but I wasn’t able to get the swing and reach the bonus hold, zero
point also on this one! The third one was like the first one completely a
disaster so I was disappointed for my bad performance on the first three
boulders but I knew that the competition ended at the last boulder so I focused
on the 4th problem. I climbed really motivated because the 4th was completely <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>my style of climbing, I reached the bonus hold
very well with no feet moves, so I got the last two volumes and I maked the
dyno and I grabbed the Top, I screamed for the joy because I was happy to back
in the game with my mind and I knew that just Gabri and Stephan had surely more
points than me so I had some possibilities to get the podium.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Just Stephan
and me were able to climbed the last boulder in the first try and I realised
that I was surely on the 3rd step of the podium! What a joy and what a crazy
moment! With this competition I understand that you have to stay focused until
the last boulder because everything can happend.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Cograts to
all the athletes that competed in this competitions and to the boulder setters
for the great problems! </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Now I have
to back on training because thanks to this performance I can take part on my
first Boulder World Cup in Grindelwald(SUI) in May, I CAN’T BELIEVE IT!</span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgW86-McnNASunUzawR9ByKV4bA-dTJM-bVrzaG5lv-fr_XhwET5V_lsykr3Z1ku9_cS6NEVazXLRWc9zDdjxr5Ih9rmC5EMK5gLty3zMNWziPC-AyZtUFJheBhbCrUbF3JcDBXCovmTldG/s1600/10274331_1463978493838007_6873246364728134146_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgW86-McnNASunUzawR9ByKV4bA-dTJM-bVrzaG5lv-fr_XhwET5V_lsykr3Z1ku9_cS6NEVazXLRWc9zDdjxr5Ih9rmC5EMK5gLty3zMNWziPC-AyZtUFJheBhbCrUbF3JcDBXCovmTldG/s1600/10274331_1463978493838007_6873246364728134146_n.jpg" height="640" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Podium</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
AndreaZanonehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07755444194137851372noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5825447574890948206.post-47001312297604521262014-04-03T13:09:00.002+02:002014-04-03T13:54:10.257+02:00Three in a day<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<![endif]--><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: ""serif"","serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;">Last Saturday Luca Bazooka,
Marco and I went to Brione to spent one of the last bouldering days before the
hot season.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;"> </span><br />
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enough to climb the hard moves, so after 20 mins we decided to change line. We
moved to the classic river stone where there are Frogger, Fake Pamplemousse
etc,because Marco and I wanted to try “Frogger” and “Fake Pamplemousse”.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;"></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIOdqRvre85wlNcr-WU6d73eCxFFn5OW5EStxycdnhNcnaWABni-2YxyD1uJjtvKwDzK3b_5y8QAAySse0lFEiocbr43GKpwcBcDGZhxkn5UwLxEa_z_8HqfNyH2Dg9kXGm59ATNiYyIye/s1600/fake+P.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIOdqRvre85wlNcr-WU6d73eCxFFn5OW5EStxycdnhNcnaWABni-2YxyD1uJjtvKwDzK3b_5y8QAAySse0lFEiocbr43GKpwcBcDGZhxkn5UwLxEa_z_8HqfNyH2Dg9kXGm59ATNiYyIye/s1600/fake+P.jpg" height="430" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fake Pamplemousse Pic.Marco Zanone</td></tr>
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after 15 mins I re-climbed all the single moves so I taked a bit of rest while
Marco tried the last move to get the sloper just before the jug(Top).
When Marco finished his tries I did a good try but I fell with the sloper in my
left hand because I didn’t stay enough solid with my body to get the swing, the
next try was the right one, I get the swing and finally I grab the Top. After
this funny line we moved to another line graded 8a and called Frogger a tricky boulder composed by a fantastic
little pinch and good pockets on an awesome orange rock.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMSHTL7lwIyCHek59u8BE5d20uWUy-Jer2KB5qiFkwV6FkN8GoxtkAdV119L3mN1CYfY8xbA0Qj4LYRUXIRW7xEdccWwXf7Jvy-7W3UrsSZfuTnfZqZZHKpJUbK6V7fkdoe3-T_yG2y8jV/s1600/frogger+8a+andre.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMSHTL7lwIyCHek59u8BE5d20uWUy-Jer2KB5qiFkwV6FkN8GoxtkAdV119L3mN1CYfY8xbA0Qj4LYRUXIRW7xEdccWwXf7Jvy-7W3UrsSZfuTnfZqZZHKpJUbK6V7fkdoe3-T_yG2y8jV/s1600/frogger+8a+andre.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Frogger Pic Marco Zanone</td></tr>
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the previous times I had some difficulties on the last two moves when you have
a crimp-pinch with the LH and a good vertical pocket with the RH to get a the
last pocket with the right hand just before the final jug. So I try that moves
and finally I found my beta that consist in a toe hook with the left foot in a
good pocket in the middle of the boulder to crimp in the best way the sharp
hold and to complete the last two moves.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKcU2QvZKykuLDC_Z26kSnrkbq_Rp5QaFGV8FzWyH9viMvXQCJe-ecPLDXZWhJ208p5lz0xMByamt6NIp2i_yQvV0QUbsu93p-hDv3zg9l7dxCPm2w89EpjY2ZKf0W6bHNlGYfO_f_dovh/s1600/frogger+andre.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKcU2QvZKykuLDC_Z26kSnrkbq_Rp5QaFGV8FzWyH9viMvXQCJe-ecPLDXZWhJ208p5lz0xMByamt6NIp2i_yQvV0QUbsu93p-hDv3zg9l7dxCPm2w89EpjY2ZKf0W6bHNlGYfO_f_dovh/s1600/frogger+andre.jpg" height="434" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Frogger Pic. Marco Zanone</td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: ""serif"","serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;">After having configured out
all moves I sent Frogger in my first go from the bottom and I was really
satisfied to have climb it because It is in my opinion one of the coolest rock
feature I've ever seen. </span></div>
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<br /></div>
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able to send Frogger so we leave all togheter with a big smile and motivated
for the last boulder of the day “Limited Edition”</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;"></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: ""serif"","serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;">This boulder is situated in a
privat area in fact in the morning the owner of the field told us that if we
wanted to try it we shouldn’t be too many people in order not to make much
noise.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;"></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: ""serif"","serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;">We taked our stuffs and we
reach the boulder, in the first time that I saw it I said WOW! No others words
came out from my mouth.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;"></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: ""serif"","serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;">So we opened our pads and we
started to try it. Marco did a great flash attempt falling to grab the first
sloper before the weird mantle. On my first attempt I had some difficuties to
stick the good vertical rail reachable with a fanstastic “ninja
move”! </span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;"></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: ""serif"","serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;">The mantle siut me really well
in fact I climbed it in the first try, I relaxed a bit and then I tried it
again. I was able to do the dyno to the right rail so I understood that I had
some possibilities to solved it,in fact with a bit of fear I climbed the
mantle and I found myself at the Top of this icredible 7c+. </span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2Cw9ozqJyNliKrxCbVxPYlgn1O7LjU56iED5zLmAJdWk8nqKqG9vWz9dOaWy6lx_RISTHYnzlNkog47sviGkFn1ip7wY1LoyFZML5YrabmUeknqLMpV6jQyrZsrplUJmPRlAIwhHRlh01/s1600/Special+Edition+7c%252B+Andre.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2Cw9ozqJyNliKrxCbVxPYlgn1O7LjU56iED5zLmAJdWk8nqKqG9vWz9dOaWy6lx_RISTHYnzlNkog47sviGkFn1ip7wY1LoyFZML5YrabmUeknqLMpV6jQyrZsrplUJmPRlAIwhHRlh01/s1600/Special+Edition+7c%252B+Andre.jpg" height="640" width="420" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Special Edition Pic. Marco Zanone</td></tr>
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the muscles of my body were weak so I decided to “call it a day” and came
back to home.</span></div>
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some competitions and after come back in other projects on rock, I’m
Sycked! </span><br />
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<a href="http://vimeo.com/90844560">Special edition ~ Brione</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user5971791">Marco Zanone</a> on <a href="https://vimeo.com/">Vimeo</a>.
AndreaZanonehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07755444194137851372noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5825447574890948206.post-54021912301976715312014-04-02T17:38:00.001+02:002014-04-03T10:37:12.958+02:00Memories from Finale Ligure<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">After one
month of<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>bouldering In Ticino and in
some areas close to my home, I decided to came back to do some Sport Climbing
so my brother and I went to Finale Ligure to do a full immersion of 8 days of
climbing. I was super sycked!</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">We rent a
small apartament in Finalpia and everyday we had to drive for about 10-15 min
to reach the cliffs that are situated around Finalborgo</span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFPTIw65zmyu70nGYkceR4mfoytOYEdrmrFpNl2Pip4K4XmhldXJylSxCYE1ql6Err7NwkhT1w2OphUo6W-aea2So8fMsnD-Ijz8Qt9jxfZEcZkdhsfBmgZ8BIrevtkKMMoFO5p8FA0WoM/s1600/Castello+finale.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFPTIw65zmyu70nGYkceR4mfoytOYEdrmrFpNl2Pip4K4XmhldXJylSxCYE1ql6Err7NwkhT1w2OphUo6W-aea2So8fMsnD-Ijz8Qt9jxfZEcZkdhsfBmgZ8BIrevtkKMMoFO5p8FA0WoM/s1600/Castello+finale.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Finalborgo Village Ph.Marco Zanone</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">In the first
days my bad stamina caused me a lot of difficulties to climb the routes but
also the bad weather didn’t helped us.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The third
day, after the rainy day we decided to check a small cave near the classic
Alveare sector hoping that it was dry. The cave looked really beautiful from
the first sight and it is composed of two 8b+ and one 8b that started into the
cave and some easier routes in the both side out of the cave.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">We decided
to try “Da Berlino non si scappa” a not so long route graded 8b+, that starts
in the left side of the cave to finish at the top of the right side of the
cave. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">In the first
go I felt it really good, but I just climbed the single moves, so I was focused
on the second attempt. I climbed the first part, the easy one, so fast to get
the first boulder in the best conditions, I did the first boulder and I reach
the first rest in the middle of the cave, I shaked my arms and I started for
the second boulder that ends at the last jugs before the anchor, I felt quite
good at the middle of the boulder but three moves later I burst as a firework!
AHAHAHA!</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The third
try of the day was the same of the second, I climbed really good until the last
boulder and than I felt pretty much tired so I fall down again. I decided to
leave project <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>for one day and than come
back more refresh.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The next day
we went to the Vascello’s sector, one of the best sector that I visit in Finale.
I tried Nazgul 8b+ and Avada Kedavra 8b but I felt myself really weirs????, I was
not able to be focused on climbing so I decided to try these routes just for training
and to recover a bit of endurance. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">In four days
of climbing I ticked 0 routes of my ticklist, so I decided to came back in the
cave to try to attempt the 8b+.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">In the first
try of the day I felt better than the two days before and the route was
completely dry. I put my quickdraws ,I brusched the holds and I wait for the
second try.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The first
part and the first boulder went really well, I shaked a bit my arms and I start
again on climbing, I felt qiute pumped but I was able to fight with the fatigue
and reach the final jug. I was really happy because I used all my energies to
climb the route! Crazy.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The day
after I decided to get a day of rest because I was basically without skin and I
had to give a bit rest to my body.</span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5A7dVLtP__-SAyuXpZgyt5P6IMarc_F-LMDaS82AvS1_UxJbc_PGPGdUm1H0UY1mIrEDo8hg9IqM-Fa8a9cir2EZdmflVOO89-OkKovg_dY-eE9GSC3PW8EM2gW-_hedgcVy4GFrBpbAQ/s1600/belgarath+8b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5A7dVLtP__-SAyuXpZgyt5P6IMarc_F-LMDaS82AvS1_UxJbc_PGPGdUm1H0UY1mIrEDo8hg9IqM-Fa8a9cir2EZdmflVOO89-OkKovg_dY-eE9GSC3PW8EM2gW-_hedgcVy4GFrBpbAQ/s1600/belgarath+8b.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Belgarath Ph. Marco Zanone</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br /></div>
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Finally I
could focused my mind on “Belgarath” 8b, because in the first days it was completly
wet and unclimable and only the time and the sun could dry up this thing.</span>
<br />
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<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">I felt my
mind under pressure again, as if it wouldn’t give me the right “power” to
climbing my projects. It was a strange mental process that I’m not able to
explain. This route consists on a first part of easy climbing on jug and follow
by<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>6 hard moves around 7b+ boulder on
little tufas and crimps and then a technical climbing to get the chain.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">On my second
go I fell to grab the last little tufa with the right hand but I felt this move
harder that before so I realized that this was not the right beta for me. Instead
to use a smooth right foot, I decided to squeeze with my right foot on <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>a little tufa.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">In the next
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to take a rest a bit longer then the others to do the last try of the day.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">I was really
disappointed and frustrated, so I started climbing relaxed without any
expectation, I climbed the first part of the boulder and finally I got the last
little tufa and the good pocket to enter in the last part. I was so incredulous
when I clipped the chain because I thought to have zero possibilities again,
what a joy! When I touched the ground I felt myself so slight and without a big
heavy on my stomac.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The last day
we went to Monte Cucco, in the same sector<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>called Il Grottone where I climbed during the Finale for Nepal
Challenge. I warmed up on a 7b and then I tried an 8b called “Cucco in alto”,
probably one of the most discontinuous route I ever done, even if It is 35
meters long.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">This route
is composed of a 7a+/7b boulder in the first part,<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>a 6c+/7a boulder in the middle and a
technical section on small pockets to reach the easy slab before the chain,
each boulder is divided by a really good rest-point. On my second go I was able
to climb it and I realized that after a week of ropeclimbing I was finally
prepared for harder stuffs but the trip was over.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">We came back
to the flat to take our stuffs and prepare the car, we went to the center of
Finalborgo to eat the last delicious ice cream of the holiday and we came back home.</span></div>
<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="281" mozallowfullscreen="" src="//player.vimeo.com/video/90770658" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="500"></iframe> <br />
<a href="http://vimeo.com/90770658">Finale Ligure # Climbing</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user5971791">Marco Zanone</a> on <a href="https://vimeo.com/">Vimeo</a>.AndreaZanonehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07755444194137851372noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5825447574890948206.post-24105182091030952072014-02-28T11:46:00.000+01:002014-02-28T12:58:13.826+01:00Good days spent in Swiss<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<br />
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<span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">The Ticino season started seriously, my brother and I went to
Cresciano and to Chironico to try some ticklist</span><span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;"> projects.</span>
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<span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">In Cresciano we went to try the Dagger , it is an amazing and
hard roof composed of super aesthetic and difficult compression moves with
crazy toe hooks but it didn’t siut me<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>from the first attempt but <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I was
motivated to try it the same.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">The first day of trying I climbed the middle part quite well
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<span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">The second day, three weeks later , I tried it again<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I felt it a bit better then the first day and
I was able to do the<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>first part and I
did good links on the second one. After one hour session <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>was really pumped and destroyed from the
physical moves but I was really happy anyway because I enjoyed this great
famous line that one day could become a serious project! </span><span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">In Cresciano I climbed also an awesome line called Jungle book
from the stand start 7c+ and 8a from the bottom.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was a pleasure climbed <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span>on it because it’s such a cool line composed
by slopers and a weird hell hook.</span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLGMumWLGGHuG8rs_xl9Ml4wEzbLaT69OHqu6QkR5upEG9QFBaslYM__A0lVsFNNkEz2xS1fUlLTpPMJMoBl4-F3C9u3b2K9XslXH1xH7-IJl1QfewkwOngSvMfz_jVqJZonPKT5-2b7Is/s1600/Jungle+book+8a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLGMumWLGGHuG8rs_xl9Ml4wEzbLaT69OHqu6QkR5upEG9QFBaslYM__A0lVsFNNkEz2xS1fUlLTpPMJMoBl4-F3C9u3b2K9XslXH1xH7-IJl1QfewkwOngSvMfz_jVqJZonPKT5-2b7Is/s1600/Jungle+book+8a.jpg" height="428" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jungle Book Ph. Marco Zanone</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">The other days I went to Chironico with 3 friends of mine in
Paese sector, we warmed up in the classic stone of Souvenir, the Aviator etc. I
climbed the Aviator and Los cursos and when I felt ok I start to try Souvenir.
I immediately felt it climbable, I did all the single moves really quickly, I
relaxed a bit and then I did the first go from the bottom but I fell to reach
the undercling for the left hand, I tried the mantle and I rested bit again.
When I felt ok I got another try and I finally hold the undercling, I taked the
sloper with right hand and with a good lolot I grab the weird pinch with my
thumb on the pocket, I taked the final jug and I was on the top of the boulder!
I was happy because everytime I went to try it, this boulder didn’t siut me
really well, but this time I had the right strenght to complete all the moves.</span>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">After I tried Blochx Addiction, another 8a in the same block.
I think it is a bit harder than Souvenir composed of a difficult shoulder move
and an hard swing to hold the last good undercling before to get into the end
of the Aviator. It took me some tries to styck the shoulder crimp and on my
best try I was able to hold the swing quite well, I took the good undercling,
but I felt pretty tired so I fall down with the Aviator’s jug in front of my
eyes, I was dissapointed but the day was still long. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">From the warm up boulder we moved toThe Pocket problem
because Stewe wanted to try it so in the meantime my brother went to Boogalagga,
but the two slopy pockets were wet sowe decided to changed our project. We
moved to Freak Brothers!</span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhz1YQt7cLB0T4jdylGtWdV3zgHLIK4oN1839jE4X5mHG4xokpHWqU595vfCQSEBuSavuMmNz113bFFACNJu7SlAJ9-IRQ_f1YGA9kzWgeRwE3Bhd_yznIuAeb6jiFFzy0sA2Y8TKkUlipg/s1600/Freak+Brothers.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhz1YQt7cLB0T4jdylGtWdV3zgHLIK4oN1839jE4X5mHG4xokpHWqU595vfCQSEBuSavuMmNz113bFFACNJu7SlAJ9-IRQ_f1YGA9kzWgeRwE3Bhd_yznIuAeb6jiFFzy0sA2Y8TKkUlipg/s1600/Freak+Brothers.jpg" height="478" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Freak Brothers Ph. Marco Zanone</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">I decided to try to flash it, but I knew that I had few
possibilities of success but I was focused the same <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>so I put my shoes and I started! I arrived to the
crimps, I matched it, and I pull up to get the edge but the right hand slipped
off, what a pity! The next tries I wasn’t able to grab the final edge and I
felt it much harder then the flash attempt. I relaxed a bit and<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I froze my fingers with the snow so I start
for a new try, I get the left crimp really well, I matched it and finally I
reach the good edge before the mantle, I stayed relax and I did the exit well,
what a joy, I was so happy, one of my “dreams” of Chironico was done, YES SIR! </span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9jYuPnomxBHS5RQ-iqqyzfBsB-GDglpILUeRtCznvsatrOCEaPowyDLzebSU1dqeN8xt6JCBEEaIIcw2oBRhUff67l7Xms3HzMv-dQqoCjCwl8rzIMmokYFx0_E4Tfj4DYcNxgaHYCZTO/s1600/Freak+Brothers1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9jYuPnomxBHS5RQ-iqqyzfBsB-GDglpILUeRtCznvsatrOCEaPowyDLzebSU1dqeN8xt6JCBEEaIIcw2oBRhUff67l7Xms3HzMv-dQqoCjCwl8rzIMmokYFx0_E4Tfj4DYcNxgaHYCZTO/s1600/Freak+Brothers1.jpg" height="478" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Freak Brothers Ph. Marco Zanone</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">Then I come back to Blochx Addiction but I was too tired to
get the swing again ,so, I came back to home with a great smile and no skin on
my fingers.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">Three days later, Matteo, my brother and I came back to
Chironico and we went to Centrale sector, we warmp up and then we moved to 101
sector to try Delusion of Grandeur 8a+. The endurance part suited me quite well,
this part consist in weird climbing on a slopy edge where you can reach the
final<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>scary top out with a small
undercling and<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>with a right foot really high.
I had some<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>difficulties to do the first
part, where you have to do a dynamic move to a good pinch from a small
undercling with the left hand and small crimp with the right one that allowed
to enter in the middle part.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">After having figure out all the moves I started to try it
from the bottom. I climbed all the first part and I<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>basically arrived at the end of the endurance
part, I grab the slopy jug just before the scary top out but my right foot slipped
off. it was really unexpected and I fell down, I was so disapointed because I
had good possibilities to climbed it. The next try was the same but this time
was the right hand that slipped off, I was really incredulous and quite
frustrated in fact I decided to change boulder.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">We moved to Tricky a funny 8a boulder close to Delusion, I
felt tired and pumped after that two tries on the 8a+ so I ate something and I relaxed a
bit. After 20 min of rest I decided to “back in the game” and with some
explanation of my brother for the right beta I flashed it, It was a great fight
because I felt tired and my fingers were frozen. I think that this boulder is
not 8a for sure, but I know that is difficult to say something about the grade
in the flash attempt, so in my opinion 7c is appropriated. </span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBsjwcUrTjeBDM6RMD7apOM20rLkoHKhd0odgnjui-mpvAWndmvDK1QMjfb13q_29DNaXgp0rGEhmT8GeK-YhkErwYFgFmP51jYzEOYf8Hc3MoD6qGYAlByNVJMZHkzPq0DkZ9HGA-u_rF/s1600/Tricky+7C+fLASH+ANDRE.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBsjwcUrTjeBDM6RMD7apOM20rLkoHKhd0odgnjui-mpvAWndmvDK1QMjfb13q_29DNaXgp0rGEhmT8GeK-YhkErwYFgFmP51jYzEOYf8Hc3MoD6qGYAlByNVJMZHkzPq0DkZ9HGA-u_rF/s1600/Tricky+7C+fLASH+ANDRE.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tricky Ph Marco Zanone</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">An exhausting hiking was waiting for us, because from 101 sector we
had to come back to Centrale sector because I wanted to destroyed myself on the
last boulder of the day, and I chose Le vent nous portera 7c+, not the best
line in this sector but the holds are not sharp, in fact it was good.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">After some tries to figure out all the moves I started to do
some good attempts on it. Two times I felt to reach the small crimp with te
right hand just before the dyno to the jug and one time I felt to grab the jug.
I felt really destroyed but I was motivated to climb it. I decided to make the
last try of the day so I froze <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>my hands
with the snow again, I put liquid chalk and I started. I taked all the holds in
the right way and finally I did the dyno to the jug! Yesss, Finally.This
line was done too and I finished the day in the best way. It was surely the
unexpected ascent so I was really satisfied.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">I hope to came back as soon as possible to finish my “
battle” with Delusion of Grandeur and to have the pleasure to climb other
awesome lines.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
AndreaZanonehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07755444194137851372noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5825447574890948206.post-68872020258575921462014-02-02T21:34:00.002+01:002014-02-02T21:51:40.065+01:00Global Warming<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">When I went for the first time in the high part of Donnas to
search some new boulders I see the Incredible roof that now is called Global
Warming, but I didn’t think that it could<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>be climbable. Some months laters I spoke with Niky Ceria and He told me that
He was trying that proj and I said WOW! I was hopeful that Niky could put up
the proj.</span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEje8l693esC7DMoppzm6_nBmaJFCd06at3gHnAmh7tQmw35NP9m9yUdHPUR_UwBVTEs32A9_OH0VlYrNsoOyFpmRMicJijZ0WSxNuv1_gehdzNh-VsKBehsorRMqLs30vvLm_WoKTdkqgV9/s1600/GW.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEje8l693esC7DMoppzm6_nBmaJFCd06at3gHnAmh7tQmw35NP9m9yUdHPUR_UwBVTEs32A9_OH0VlYrNsoOyFpmRMicJijZ0WSxNuv1_gehdzNh-VsKBehsorRMqLs30vvLm_WoKTdkqgV9/s1600/GW.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Middle section of GW Pic. Marco Zanone</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">One day I saw Niky again <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>and he said me that the proj was done..good
job! He has been a great visionary because the line is really logical and each
hold is in the right position..Congrats! I saw the video about his ascent and
the moves didn’t seem suitable<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>for my
level and I decided to wait to try it because it seemed too hard for me.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
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<span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">When I came back to Spain, I was quite focused to try Global
Warming but I know that I was not alone because <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Gabri Moroni and Luca Rinaldi wanted to try it
too. Two weeks ago I went with my friends in Donnas<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>to start to figure out the moves and to understand
if it was possible for me. In the first day of trying I spent about three hours
under the roof to get the moves, at the end of the day I was super satisfied
because I climbed all the single moves , getting too two great tries from the
bottom to the last hard move, that <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>consists in a fantastic dyno to a good
triangolar sloper-egde and to hold the hard swing! I was sicked and exciting to
came back as soon as possible.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">Two weeks later all of us came back to the proj and I was really
motivated but a bit frustated because I wanted to repeat at least the hardest
single moves like the past session. </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicDRC52Zkp93z6bXJj20WyLy0v4f2UEc0yUjF1Emv51-1NUqOfn-p0z69Li3n7luUfZUe9Gl4zN7dYjeC0sXr14DXTy61Pt6Bm9l0ycFUOeeOGgQcIPyl5xd995lmRpVVWIV-8iedlmcFF/s1600/Global+warming+8b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicDRC52Zkp93z6bXJj20WyLy0v4f2UEc0yUjF1Emv51-1NUqOfn-p0z69Li3n7luUfZUe9Gl4zN7dYjeC0sXr14DXTy61Pt6Bm9l0ycFUOeeOGgQcIPyl5xd995lmRpVVWIV-8iedlmcFF/s1600/Global+warming+8b.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The swing of GW Ph. Marco Zanone</td></tr>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">After a fast warm up <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Gabri, Marco,Alessia and I <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>went <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>directly to GW, we ate something, we brushed
the holds and put the pads. The rest of the crew was coming and immediately we
put up the climbing shoes and we start the “fight” with the boulder. In the
first time I felt a bit tired without energies and strength in fact I had some
difficulties to reclimb the single moves in the middle of the roof and I felt <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>the “famous dyno” to the sloper-egde so hard.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">Meanwhile I felt heavy like an Elephant instead <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Gabri was able <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>to send the boulder easily on his second try of
the day, Nice Work DUDE! <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I decided to take
a bit of rest and do a relaxing walk around the forest with my friends to show
them a nice boulder that I found two weeks ago. We came back down to GW and I
felt ok to try<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>it again, fortunately the
holds were brushed and cold. I put up the climbing shoes and I focused one
minute under the line to repeat in my mind all the single hands and feet
moves..I started, my skin was cold enough and the fiction was super good I
climb the first part really well and I arrived at the crux, I get finally the slopy
–edge and the swing I did the crazy toe hook to the edge and I climbed the
mantle….I couldn’t believe! Global Warming was Done! What a Joy..Thanks all my
friends for the incitement, their support was essential. For the next hours I
was incredulous to be able to do it, it was one of the best moment ever of my
climbing career.</span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJ-XNivnm7ryan98c0Cq3qVv-CFH5WGZvuL8PXw4MP2xEHV0WTRZ5l-8jPNrSaNHjbr4PLimzHv9CPthXrBuJy1TyuoPrWLesc12xC5lepr6gPcNu0ogSvwY816sTMUwPNuFs-H96m5Bvb/s1600/GW+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJ-XNivnm7ryan98c0Cq3qVv-CFH5WGZvuL8PXw4MP2xEHV0WTRZ5l-8jPNrSaNHjbr4PLimzHv9CPthXrBuJy1TyuoPrWLesc12xC5lepr6gPcNu0ogSvwY816sTMUwPNuFs-H96m5Bvb/s1600/GW+2.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Toe hook of GW Ph. Marco Zanone</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">Now it’s time to train hard and to focus on some other
project.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;"> The Link of the video of GW: </span><span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;"><a href="http://vimeo.com/85436055" target="_blank">http://vimeo.com/85436055</a></span><span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;"> </span></div>
AndreaZanonehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07755444194137851372noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5825447574890948206.post-65622681917467021792014-02-02T19:37:00.000+01:002014-02-02T19:37:31.969+01:00España en el corazón<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">For the fourth year in row my family and I went to Spain
during the Christmas Holiday, I was really exciting like every year and a lot
of incredible routes are waiting me!</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">After 12 hours of travel we arrived in Cornudella de Montsant
and we meet Carmen, the woman from which we rented the house for ten days, we
put up our stuffs, we had a dinner and we wait <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>the next day.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmL0Ge3znzinQLH8fvA_zgEa9kYzvftzNIV7ZA6a3F3g8fRpTY6tXG12looIQ17MbDDquPJGkNzItbkqDR1yNQup9JPx7uC705Ivbox5W0rsvcQR1vJ2-JqLgJQCCizNuHYH1gTnfKXlY6/s1600/siurana.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmL0Ge3znzinQLH8fvA_zgEa9kYzvftzNIV7ZA6a3F3g8fRpTY6tXG12looIQ17MbDDquPJGkNzItbkqDR1yNQup9JPx7uC705Ivbox5W0rsvcQR1vJ2-JqLgJQCCizNuHYH1gTnfKXlY6/s1600/siurana.jpg" height="424" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Siurana village Ph. Marco Zanone</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">Day 1</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">We went to Siurana in a fanatstic sector called Siuranella
Sud because it was a windy day and this sector was covered by the wind, during
the firsts climbing I felt a bit tired from the travel, and not able to push
myself as I wanted, but I decided to try an amazing 8a+ featured by a blu
straight with a fantastic limestone called “Try me” but my<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>first project ended in the worst way, becuase
a friend of mine broke the key hold and all my possibilieties to send it
vanished, I was a bit sad for the route that now it became a project for
everyboby but the trip was just started.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;"> <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDdT381ePOuOAxtlbOXJrMlQcGA4F0etKgXxCxlhFkhWXQ8P_yB0gSTCV7YIIxKARrQVtT_sPAQCEATABpn-QUEikOrSNw7E_HFpDrrHR7kR4Ig3F65ywo4LZNTZDN432feU8J6vQsboCk/s1600/casa+ghitani.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDdT381ePOuOAxtlbOXJrMlQcGA4F0etKgXxCxlhFkhWXQ8P_yB0gSTCV7YIIxKARrQVtT_sPAQCEATABpn-QUEikOrSNw7E_HFpDrrHR7kR4Ig3F65ywo4LZNTZDN432feU8J6vQsboCk/s1600/casa+ghitani.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Spanish "house" Ph. Marco Zanone</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">Day 2</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">We went to Margalef precisely in the Espedelles sector, one
of my favourite and I had an old uncompleted route from the past year, “El Ball
del Triceps”that is probably one of the best route I tried in that grade. On my
first try I dust off the moves in the first part because there is a weird
campus move to get a pocket and some physical moves the reach the first rest
point. In the second go I climbed the first part and I got the first rest where
i could <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>shake my arms a bit. From that
point to the chain there are still 30 endurance moves around 7c/+ that there
are ok if you start from there but I had some difficulties to link the first
physical part to the endurance one in order to reach the final rest point just
before the easy slab to the chain. I fell<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>just<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>before the second rest
point.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">The third go went like the second so I decided to review the
part where I fell two times in a row and I found a new beta but it was getting
dark and my skin were a bit cut from the sharp pockets so my enemy was still
not climbed.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">Day 3</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">I came back to Espedelles to complete my proj, in my first
try of the day I got the “crux” where the day before I fialed, but this time I
fell 3 meters from the chain because I was a bit cold and I was really pumped
when I’m falling<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I thougth “Fuck , what
are u doing man?!” I was a bit frustrated for some hours but I couldn’t
surrender myself so I started to climbed it for the last time and as I had
hoped I clip the chain with a big smile and my pumpy arms I sent “the deal”
with this amazing 8b.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">One our later I also sent a new short 8a called Innuendo on
my flash attempt, a bit soft for the grade but really nice climbing featured by
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>pockets and great white rock.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">So I completed my 2013 in the best way and I changed my focus
on the year-end party! YEAHH</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;"> <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOo8hMDH87TKqdHyZc0eynCIFQf9RhrsH4T3X4Nbds0GCcq_g15z0-CX3SbJj70FhaUZaaSt9ajleOKXGx1tIct1nn7Kdgtyaga-52VrBRbd2zUe_9m77aedSJg-kd3jVgnco0PeYsacPw/s1600/El+ball+del+triceps+8b+Andre.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOo8hMDH87TKqdHyZc0eynCIFQf9RhrsH4T3X4Nbds0GCcq_g15z0-CX3SbJj70FhaUZaaSt9ajleOKXGx1tIct1nn7Kdgtyaga-52VrBRbd2zUe_9m77aedSJg-kd3jVgnco0PeYsacPw/s1600/El+ball+del+triceps+8b+Andre.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">El ball del triceps, Margalef Ph. Pierre Zanone</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">Day 4</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">Rest day after the crazy party my family and I went to the
high car park in Siurana to take some pictures and some timelapes</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">Day 5 </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">The climbing trip start again after the rest day and we
decided to come back in Siurana<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>in a known
sector called Can Pigui Pugui with Gabri Moroni, because my brother was so
closed on a proj named “Bou i prou” 8b, the line just on the right of the
famouse “A muerte” graded 8c+/9a</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">I was agree with my bro to try the 8b togheter but I felt
myself a bit tired and I had the difficulty to climb one single move of this
great route that consist to get a slopy crimp<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>with the right hand and to up your left foot and do a strange heel hook
to reach the good hold before the last boulder. I tried it 3 or 4 times but
everytime I fell in that fucking move because my fingers had not the right
power to lock the slopy crimp.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">But I was happy for my bro because he climbed it really well
and he did his first 8b in Siurana, good effort mate! </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">Day 6</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">We came back to Espedelles sector because we bougth the new
Margalef’s guidebook and we saw that in the most right there was a lot of new
lines. I warmed up on fanatastic 6c and on a 7a but we were “hungry” of<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>something harder so we were advised from Luca
L a friend of our, to try a 8a bouldery-route, really steep and powerful called
“Ser purista a me despista”. I was so lucky because my brother gave me the
right beta for the boulder, so I Flash it <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>feeling it a bit harder than the first 8° that
I flashed.. I was really satisfied, but the day wasn’t over, I took my stuffs I
came back to the Espedelles classic sector.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">I had in mind a beautiful route that my brother climbed some
days ago called Braguetasso 8a+. In my first go I felt really tired in fact
when I arrived at the chain I though, ok today is not the right day to get this
route.I relaxed for one hour an half<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>and
my mind back in the game.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">I climbed the first part with fatigue but I was determinated
and I get the big rest point, I shaked my arms and I decided to climb really fast
the second part, I felt a bit better than the first part, I did the long move
quite well to reach the final good pockets and after some easy moves I get the
chain! I was sooo happy, because I was<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>determinated and it gave me the happiness to say I climb this amazing
route.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;"> <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTXSYvPxSWFnwOR9OyXnc8LFtT_rlZCp2gSu0XHthN2iVwbiJz-fVCkn-Uo6uXcT96NjWJsZFNU4dkdbqziGzF8WB8vtKXH-QYdlU_a907hnlS7_zqi-znsD0BZM63KOhQ-JbOeb0IbFte/s1600/braguetasso+8a%252B+andrea.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTXSYvPxSWFnwOR9OyXnc8LFtT_rlZCp2gSu0XHthN2iVwbiJz-fVCkn-Uo6uXcT96NjWJsZFNU4dkdbqziGzF8WB8vtKXH-QYdlU_a907hnlS7_zqi-znsD0BZM63KOhQ-JbOeb0IbFte/s1600/braguetasso+8a%252B+andrea.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Braguetasso, Marfalef Ph. Pierre Zanone</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">Day 7 </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">We check a new crag for everybody called El balcon de
l’Ermita, a awesome wall with crazy rock, I was so tired during the warm up but
after my muscels went well and I climbed one of the best route of the trip
called<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>“Gotim Bru”7b <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>with an amazing blue limestone.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">I wanted “to call it a day” but I was motivated by my brother
to climb again, in fact we on-sighted<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>a
superb<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>7c+ called Mirtoglicerina, WOW!
Surely unexpected ascent, YEAHHH!</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
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<span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">Day 8</span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">Last day in Spain, I was motivated to climb on-sight because
I was more affinity with the rock, I went to Espedelles to try some endurance
route, and I focused myself to try Malasombra a 7c+ just on the right of Braguetasso,
I try to figure out some moves from the ground following the chalk on the
pockets, butvI hadn’t understand some moves in the first part . I thought it doesn’t
care, the on-sight climbing is funny because you have to take the decisions
quickly when you climb, I prepared my stuffs and I started for the attempt. This
route <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>is featured by a mono and slopy
pockets in the first part but it is not so hard that it looks, a good rest and
than endurance climbing and a weird single move , because you have to take a
three fingers pocket and to understand which one is the best way to do the sequence
in order<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>to reach the exit from the slight
overhang and to take the jugs before to clip the chain. I was so happy to have
understood almost all the moves of the route and to have onsighted it!</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">Just after this cool route we move with other four friends in
a<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>small cliff, famouse for its short and
powerful routes called El Laboratori, we decided to destroyed ours arms
definitely.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">I started to try La Bombi an ex 8b, I say ex because it was
8b but someone broke a hold and now the grade is around 8a/+.It is probably the
shortest route I ever climbed for a total of 4 spit plus the chain, I climbed
it in my third go, I want to make the congrats to my bro to have Flash it!</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">After La Bombi my brother decided to try Absolut another 8a+
it <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>basically consist in one single move
to get a good two finger pocket but it is really long, you have to give the
right push with your feet and arms and to be so precise and focus to do this
dyno. I try it three/ four times to understand the right position and with some
screams during the climbing I get the chain when the sun was setting, I was
pumped with a bit of blood on my fingers but with a big smile on my face. I was
really satisfied because I pushed myself to the limit sending some hard stuff
in a single day but also because it was the fourth day of climbing in a row! <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsjlqAyPJfrkRZdWwQ9LYpd1klA6TOaBRmcVvFumQHp3swXKSBvMiVEWsjI96W0zJr5WURrZfkhaE-CHAPUGxkopHxdli93SuxbvfJzdcKSIWU4CgLwqy-9fDlFaWbQVW5A7v2qwMKM1C0/s1600/morena+de+mont+sant.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsjlqAyPJfrkRZdWwQ9LYpd1klA6TOaBRmcVvFumQHp3swXKSBvMiVEWsjI96W0zJr5WURrZfkhaE-CHAPUGxkopHxdli93SuxbvfJzdcKSIWU4CgLwqy-9fDlFaWbQVW5A7v2qwMKM1C0/s1600/morena+de+mont+sant.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Landscape of Morera de Montsant Ph. Marco Zanone</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">This trip was a blast like every year I passed here in Spain,
I hope to come back as soon as possible! </span><span style="font-family: Wingdings; font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt; mso-char-type: symbol; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-symbol-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-char-type: symbol; mso-symbol-font-family: Wingdings;"></span></span><span style="font-size: 16.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;"></span></div>
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<br /></div>
AndreaZanonehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07755444194137851372noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5825447574890948206.post-74896093291378598502014-01-13T17:49:00.003+01:002014-01-13T17:49:46.587+01:00Some lines in Ticino<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">After Font I
was completely psyched for Bouldering in fact I spent<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>some days in Ticino but each day in a
different spots.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The first
bouldering place where I climbed was Cresciano, <span class="hps">definitely the
place</span><span class="shorttext"> </span><span class="hps">that I have visited</span><span class="shorttext"> </span><span class="hps">less in Ticino.</span></span><br />
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<span class="hps"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">In Cresciano, </span></b></span><span class="hps"><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">I climbed some
classics like:</span></span></div>
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<span class="hps"><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">-Vol au vent 7a Flash</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span class="hps"><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">- Il Partner Original 7b Flash</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span class="hps"><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">-Hannibal Lecter 7b/+ Flash</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span class="hps"><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">-La Pioche 7b+ Flash</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span class="hps"><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">- La Nave va 7c+</span></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQJz_OPHVl6oQY8oDq1p_MzG-6N1rOWb4Yugeu2mM_OLQ18rHRgVhuYma9eL8qLRLVjzb8475GgynH_jtWagSyrYyqEWezOfH2EE2DzJBcy2WdNJmGphy16ocHzv_9E5fAp-Bdz_87t6to/s1600/La+nave+va+7c%252B.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQJz_OPHVl6oQY8oDq1p_MzG-6N1rOWb4Yugeu2mM_OLQ18rHRgVhuYma9eL8qLRLVjzb8475GgynH_jtWagSyrYyqEWezOfH2EE2DzJBcy2WdNJmGphy16ocHzv_9E5fAp-Bdz_87t6to/s640/La+nave+va+7c%252B.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">La Nave Va Cresciano (CH)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span class="hps"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Chironico </span></b></span><span class="hps"><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">is the spot that I climbed more in
the last years, but I had the curiosity to check a new sector and new boulders
for me, it is called Shattental. This sector is situated near a river in fact
many boulders are smooth and featured by slopers.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span class="hps"><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">In one day I climbed:</span></span><br />
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span class="hps"><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">-Powerstrips 7b Flash</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span class="hps"><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">-Nobody ist der grobte 7b+</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span class="hps"><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">-Bridge Over Trouble Waters 7c+/8a </span></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUXBPvQSC1pWjJoIK5m23sid5wBuuN1shjkhxini9EN5rRlSvFskPpE-Csy9yvCx_C6q0ElS0k38CsTLE1DAcVv2TWI3TAh6jhKTLs_zdZ6CSpnTIO0jOWAYb_afz1ZMDua5M9jjwPt0_q/s1600/Bridge+over+troubled+waters.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUXBPvQSC1pWjJoIK5m23sid5wBuuN1shjkhxini9EN5rRlSvFskPpE-Csy9yvCx_C6q0ElS0k38CsTLE1DAcVv2TWI3TAh6jhKTLs_zdZ6CSpnTIO0jOWAYb_afz1ZMDua5M9jjwPt0_q/s640/Bridge+over+troubled+waters.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bridge Over Trouble Waters Chironico (CH)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span class="hps"><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">One month later I came back to Chironico but I went to Nivo Basso sector
and unfortunately all the boulders were completely wet except two lines, Made
in Norway and Made in Ticino. </span></span><br />
<span class="hps"><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">After a fast warm up I sent the two only dry
lines in Chironico.</span></span><br />
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span class="hps"><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">-Made in Norway 7b 2nd go</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span class="hps"><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">-Made in Ticino 7c</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span class="hps"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">In Brione, </span></b></span><span class="hps"><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">probably one the best
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>bouldering place I have climbed because
the rock quality is amazing and a lot of perfect granite boulders surrounded
this special mountain place.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span class="hps"><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">In one day I sent two fantastic lines:</span></span><br />
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span class="hps"><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">-7c+ open by Samuel Ometz</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span class="hps"><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">- Black Pearl 8a/+ </span></span><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtd8qGJv6ml270H8ynj5YW9f0wBAfrILXUzxiZ8mFJGMTSiltvdNQh4VyG8kJpwmg_SMnPtnHnOQyEETb8IYGNdn6GTuZb3Sah31FHaUB0qxc9PMxcPDy6Y6Yn60BsgzSGA-enih36Pl90/s1600/Black+Pearl+8a%252B.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtd8qGJv6ml270H8ynj5YW9f0wBAfrILXUzxiZ8mFJGMTSiltvdNQh4VyG8kJpwmg_SMnPtnHnOQyEETb8IYGNdn6GTuZb3Sah31FHaUB0qxc9PMxcPDy6Y6Yn60BsgzSGA-enih36Pl90/s640/Black+Pearl+8a%252B.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Black Pearl Brione (CH)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span class="hps"><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The link of the Video: <a href="https://vimeo.com/84018909" target="_blank">Some lines in Ticino</a></span></span></div>
AndreaZanonehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07755444194137851372noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5825447574890948206.post-62171563820179819652013-12-24T19:46:00.000+01:002013-12-24T19:53:52.875+01:00The Magic Forest<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I spent many time of my climbing life to
travel around Europe but one of the most amazing bouldering place that missed
me was Fontainebleau. I planned this trip with my brother Marco, Francesco ,Valerio
from november<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>the 9<sup>th </sup>to
novembre the 17<sup>th</sup> so we left<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Italy the early morning with a full car. Valerio joined<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>us by plane from Rome so we met in Font. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>For us was the first time in the magic
forest<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>in fact we were super sycked to
see the fenomenal<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>environment that
surround it but actually to test the famous sandstone.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"> </span> </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Day 1</span></div>
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"></span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"> </span><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">We visited
two of the classiest sectors called Cuvier Rempart and Bas Cuvier </span>
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">In the first
one we climbed some amazing lines <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>like <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Duroxmanie
6c</b>, <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Angle Allain 5+ </b>a funny edge
in the high part of the sector and a nice <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">7a
</b>called <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Big Mama</b> just on the
right of Gourmadise!</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">This style
of climbing suits me quite well so after this great warm up, my brother and I went
to check the “Big Four” </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The “Big
Four” are: Big Boss 7c, Fourmis Rouge 7c, Tristesse 7c and Big Golden 7c+ so we
decided to try one of these , the famous <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Big
Boss</b>. On my <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>flash attempt I fell in
the last hard move just over the overhang when you have to get the final pocket
with the right hand so I felt it really possible.I was closer and closer<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>but some tries<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I dabbed the big stone on the back. I <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>took a bit time of rest to brush the holds and
to get ready my mind for <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>the last move,
because It is a weird <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>and scary dyno to
stick a big sloper with the right foot quite high. I put my climbing shoes, I
took some chalk and I started climbing; I did the first part without dabbing
the stone and finally I got the last sloper, so I was able to to take this
thing down.WHAT A JOY! I was super satisfied to have climbed this historical
boulder in my first day in the forest.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">In the afternoon
we moved to Bas cuvier and I was breathless seeing <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>the amazing environment<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>and I had not words to describe it. White sand
covered<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>the ground <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>a lot of sandstone boulders were in front of
me and I<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>just <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>desired climbing, climbing, climbing! </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">I sent <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Cortomaltese 6c+ </b>then I moved the to
try <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Helicopter 7a </b>that it is feature
by a fantastic dyno to a jug, so it took me some tries to figure out the beta
and to get this move.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Day 2</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Today we opted for Isatis centre sector that
is <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span class="hps">characterizes from </span>a
different environment <span class="hps">because it is completly surrounded by an
amazing forest, really different from Bas Cuvier.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span class="hps"><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">I warmed up on some easy boulder climbing an awesome line called <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">La Statique 6a+</b> feature by an
impressive big pinch. In the same boulder there are two other lines: <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Surplomb Gauche 7a</b><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>and <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Divine
Decadance 7b+</b> but the second one <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I
wasn’t able to climb. A few steps farther there is <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Little Karma</b> a really hard <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">6c</b> <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>that its moves seemed like the real Karma, as
the name suggests.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span class="hps"><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Then we moved to the upper part of the sector where I was able to send <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>two crazy lines:<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"> El Poussah 7a</b> and <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">El</b> <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Poussif 7a+.</b></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span class="hps"><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The first one is characterized by a fenomenal <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>toe hook with right foot that was
essential<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>to do the problem.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Instead the second one is more technical with
strange moves <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>on slippery feet but the
hardest one was pushing with the left hand in order to put your left foot where
you have the hand. Crazy! </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span class="hps"><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"> <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJLXmJ7Y9IiTj_ZZWWnG69aeXZeGg7CgagGG16AMH1AFUu_R74l_SFXarcNKE2G_S-lV9yCRYdXTBmsX-s3FVKKFbWf0DENSojX7L4zcDr-AjqpBKY9ULOLtD5Ep_TjpEBVqAXe-txfLuX/s1600/El+Pussah+7a+flash+andre.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="404" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJLXmJ7Y9IiTj_ZZWWnG69aeXZeGg7CgagGG16AMH1AFUu_R74l_SFXarcNKE2G_S-lV9yCRYdXTBmsX-s3FVKKFbWf0DENSojX7L4zcDr-AjqpBKY9ULOLtD5Ep_TjpEBVqAXe-txfLuX/s640/El+Pussah+7a+flash+andre.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">El Poussah 7a Flash Ph: Marco Zanone</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Day 3 </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">We came back
to Bas Cuvier and <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>we warmed up on an
amazing <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">6a</b> called <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Le trou du Simon</b> <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>just on the right of L’Aerodynamite. Just for
funning my brother and I tried <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Aerodynamite
7c </b>that is reference point of jump start.<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"> </b>On the flash go I grabbed the lower big hole that was really
slippery but on the second try I got the right one and like a warm I crawled to
the top of boulder. HELL YEAH! </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Then we
moved to try the world’s first <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">6a,</b> <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">La Marie Rose</b>, I was fascinated by this
line for his story and surely it was a pleasure climbed this famous slab. Then
we came back because I wanted to climb <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">La
Berenzina 7c, <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></b>that probably was the
“Biggest Fight” of the trip, because it was the third day of climbing in a row,
the climbing day was basically over and I had not skin anymore. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I got my first tries but I felt pretty tired
so i decided to take a big rest <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>in order
to </span><span class="hps"><span lang="EN" style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN;">recover the energies. When I </span></span><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">fell okay i did two tries falling two
times to reach the good sloper before the top out. I was sycked so<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I took another rest and just after I sent my
second 7c in a day!! </span><span style="font-family: Wingdings; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-char-type: symbol; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-symbol-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-char-type: symbol; mso-symbol-font-family: Wingdings;">J</span></span><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"> SOOOO SATISFIED.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"> <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisbinfpA9WJNFj-5gd8RpqLn-c12Rz2B6K4LrE4SCuIgbun0SHzEc9trinofyx1XRN47mfJ6Plbpd-JWf1RvqJw1KKmuITH7pyjM3fiLXyiAL02U4kDnsZ-cV4b3JOwtUnPghz1uBzkdyG/s1600/Aerodinamite+7c+Andre.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisbinfpA9WJNFj-5gd8RpqLn-c12Rz2B6K4LrE4SCuIgbun0SHzEc9trinofyx1XRN47mfJ6Plbpd-JWf1RvqJw1KKmuITH7pyjM3fiLXyiAL02U4kDnsZ-cV4b3JOwtUnPghz1uBzkdyG/s640/Aerodinamite+7c+Andre.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Aerodynamite 7c 2nd go Ph: Francesco Longhini </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Day 4:</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Today we
decided to check a new sector for us called Cusinier sector because it looked
so beautiful from the guide book. It is situated on a fantastic hill composed
by big trees, small ferns and a big quantity of musk, one of the best
environment I ever seen.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">I climbed
some awesome lines like <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Bizarre Bizarre
7a+</b> that is a great edge just on the right of Karma, <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Battle Juice 7a+,</b> a fantastic egg composed by big holes and a weird
top out. The best line I climbed today was <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Excalibur
7a+, </b>a difficult and technical edge with small and slopy feet. The key to
solve the boulder is to push so much with the left foot in order to be in balance
to get a far sloper . The lengend of this line is the same of the famous sword Excalibur,
it said that just the “chosen” can climb it! </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"> <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqdridaMDJyVhgvHg_4_aonQ6KxQOXjRBgApSQjTQ_fVXz4IUQxuVp9Fs6Bx4-K596nthrGgx8TTfhhrWzGI62OFxIsY8mSc4XdRBDbIKEuEkpA59D1Zmgm0-m_AkHIANABN3wBz3oHyCS/s1600/Berenzina+7c+Andre.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="408" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqdridaMDJyVhgvHg_4_aonQ6KxQOXjRBgApSQjTQ_fVXz4IUQxuVp9Fs6Bx4-K596nthrGgx8TTfhhrWzGI62OFxIsY8mSc4XdRBDbIKEuEkpA59D1Zmgm0-m_AkHIANABN3wBz3oHyCS/s640/Berenzina+7c+Andre.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">La Berenzina 7c Ph: Francesco Longhini</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</span><span style="font-family: Wingdings; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-char-type: symbol; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-symbol-font-family: Wingdings;"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Wingdings; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-char-type: symbol; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-symbol-font-family: Wingdings;"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Wingdings; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-char-type: symbol; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-symbol-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-char-type: symbol; mso-symbol-font-family: Wingdings;"></span></span><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Day 5</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Rest day
because It rained for the big part of the day but when stopped it we went to
visit some sectors like Elephant and Petit Bois</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Day 6 </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Elephant was
our destination for the morning and when I arrived dowthere I felt like I was
in a fairy tale because a crazy quantity of boulders covers this increadible
spot and a white sand trasform the woods in a true and amazing beach!</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The quantity
of easy boulders is impressive and It’s a real pleasure climb on it, I climbed
a super good line ,but a bit polished, composed just from pockets called <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">La Barre Fixe 7b+. </b></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Then I sent <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Le Coeur 7a, </b>an impressive feature
characterizes it because the nature drew a real stone heart on the boulder that
gives the name to the line.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">In the
afternoon we moved to Le Cul du Chein sector and I was able to flash the line
that gives <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>name of the sector <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Le Cul du Chein 7a</b>, that is an amazing
high roof with a two fingers pocket in the middle and a big hole just over the
roof and from these one you have to do a campus move to reached the last hold
before the top out. Then I took my crash pad heading toward one of the most
amazing line I climbed in Font, <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Eclipse
7c.</b></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The whole
line follow a roof for the first moves <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>then goes to left into an amazing vertical
crack with a fenomenal weird dyno to grab a crimp. The stand start(7c) starts
in the middle of the roof with a good crimp with the right hand and a small one
with the left hand. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>After having up your
feet from the ground you get a bad sloper <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>and with a strange toe hook <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>you have to take the slopy crack with the left
hand. From this position you have to get more three times with the left to
reach the crack in the best way doing then <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>the dyno.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>After 40 minutes of work I climbed <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Eclipes</b>,
having no words to discribe this epic moment, so happy for the beautiful of the
line and for the crazy moves! </span><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="mso-char-type: symbol; mso-symbol-font-family: Wingdings;"></span>Some minutes
later I also climbed <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Arabesque 7b+</b>
the line on the right of Eclipes composed by long moves on big holes and a
difficult mantle with slopers and small pockets.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"> <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeGqas26Zs0IltUNyCFQkokD1sqZ3CVWglsNbB2nQUp5LID-k_XFRwTj4-B_CHHVEUfb-6zqVGZVSatfZH1GLSzY9dBjG2uayUkku-TI86LazHcMv-GR-5oLCzel9KG-Mopz3mYTZ1KLn1/s1600/Eclipse+7c+andre.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="432" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeGqas26Zs0IltUNyCFQkokD1sqZ3CVWglsNbB2nQUp5LID-k_XFRwTj4-B_CHHVEUfb-6zqVGZVSatfZH1GLSzY9dBjG2uayUkku-TI86LazHcMv-GR-5oLCzel9KG-Mopz3mYTZ1KLn1/s640/Eclipse+7c+andre.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Eclipse 7c Ph: Marco Zanone</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Day 7( last
day)</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The last day
as always came really quickly and we decided to climb in Rocher aux Sabots
sector but it was a freaking cold morning <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>and it was so difficult to warm up very well.
I got some attempts on <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Sale Gosse </b>being at each try closer but
it is still a project for next time! Then we went to check the last sector of
the trip Petit Bois where I climbed three must-do linea as: <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Big Jim</b> <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">6c</b> an high and vertical wall with lots of pockets, <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">La Baleine 7a</b> and <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">L’Oeuf 7b </b>that probably is the boulder that rappresent most the
font style.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There aren’t <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>holds</span><span class="shorttext"><span style="mso-ansi-language: EN;"> </span></span><span class="hps"><span lang="EN" style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN;">that give you</span></span><span class="shorttext"><span lang="EN" style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN;"> </span></span><span class="hps"><span lang="EN" style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN;">confidence</span></span><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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so slippery feet and an hard top out! Just three words for this line…</span><br />
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">This is
Font!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Surely I
want to came back to Font as soon as possible to climb again in this increabile
spot but also to stay in contact with the nature and the fantastic environment
that surrounded all this boulders.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"> <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHBVDWCNjBcsgQqeWWJwG0Z_EX2qXkFLte0HezdGwpzJd-TFe0rKc6iAAt3VfIjFtXV9x_fTgf3dQDL8DQtHAoalZX6b4ODflvdIMk42KA6cdCD6eKiHBRvP55VxksUjUyiOLCLjXHi4QI/s1600/andre+big+jim+sequenza.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="412" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHBVDWCNjBcsgQqeWWJwG0Z_EX2qXkFLte0HezdGwpzJd-TFe0rKc6iAAt3VfIjFtXV9x_fTgf3dQDL8DQtHAoalZX6b4ODflvdIMk42KA6cdCD6eKiHBRvP55VxksUjUyiOLCLjXHi4QI/s640/andre+big+jim+sequenza.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Big Jim 6c Ph: Marco Zanone</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Merry christmas
to everybody! ENJOY YOUR TIME</span></div>
AndreaZanonehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07755444194137851372noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5825447574890948206.post-87110386943117528402013-12-08T22:00:00.001+01:002013-12-08T22:00:16.874+01:00One Month ago, my first 8b+<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Hi Everybody</span><br />
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">This is my
first blog on my new website and I want to talk about my adventures.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">I start with
one of the my best goal in 2013.</span><br />
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">In the half
part of October I decided to try with my brother Marco an old “famous” route </span><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">called Invidia and graded 8b+ </span>in
Aosta Valley in a crag called “I Biellesi”.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">This route
was bolted by Alberto Gnerro in the 1998 but until today this route has not
been so much repeated. It’s not definitely<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>the best line that I tried but it was a good powerful, endurance and
fingery test for me.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">In my
opinion all single moves are hard and even harder to link it up in fact when
you up your feet from the ground you have to fight until having clipped the
chain! The first part is the most powerfull part of the route,that consists on long
moves on crimps and the hardest move is to grab the slopy undercling with the
left hand <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>and getting a good crimp with
the right one.</span></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj76vBO3bhqlY_TnGZQZDO-S0MW-X5fIdkK7ViaADQiyB2O2JY1EhvJX29DjWj6Yt8PHDk78cdrc-6eTuf4PK8NsBz42b2PALPV6rGLPzoWqjrfgY0tye0zklaTwDqPx6bpF4ZmnWqw6-OM/s1600/Invidia+8b%252B.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="398" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj76vBO3bhqlY_TnGZQZDO-S0MW-X5fIdkK7ViaADQiyB2O2JY1EhvJX29DjWj6Yt8PHDk78cdrc-6eTuf4PK8NsBz42b2PALPV6rGLPzoWqjrfgY0tye0zklaTwDqPx6bpF4ZmnWqw6-OM/s640/Invidia+8b%252B.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Invidia 8b+ Ph Marco Zanone</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-6mMu7eapWtKvg2BTAyNHOCxJ61dqkKoiRr9HKsg0cQfKby25wihndc8ISeDPJZ-D4IBcNeOJbjUn9it_ObIDaPXqWa_rERSIaWOAVDS_VBQa-0U30Y4hEbVZbt58S-NiW4bM3FfeJ-9q/s1600/Invidia+8b++Andre.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></a><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Instead the
second part is more technical with a strange heel hook that allowed to get the
final slab. This was the second crux and actually the hardest part for me, that
consists on a weird boulder with vertical crimps and slippery feet .It took me
some attemps <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>to figure out the right
beta because I was too</span><span class="hps"><span style="mso-ansi-language: EN;"> </span></span><span class="hps"><span lang="EN" style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN;">outstretched</span></span><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"> so I was not able to put up my right
foot on a small foot prop that was hidden by an undercling. </span></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-6mMu7eapWtKvg2BTAyNHOCxJ61dqkKoiRr9HKsg0cQfKby25wihndc8ISeDPJZ-D4IBcNeOJbjUn9it_ObIDaPXqWa_rERSIaWOAVDS_VBQa-0U30Y4hEbVZbt58S-NiW4bM3FfeJ-9q/s1600/Invidia+8b++Andre.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-6mMu7eapWtKvg2BTAyNHOCxJ61dqkKoiRr9HKsg0cQfKby25wihndc8ISeDPJZ-D4IBcNeOJbjUn9it_ObIDaPXqWa_rERSIaWOAVDS_VBQa-0U30Y4hEbVZbt58S-NiW4bM3FfeJ-9q/s640/Invidia+8b++Andre.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Invidia 8b+ Ph Marco Zanone</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The day of
my birthday, or rather November the 8<sup>th</sup>, I went to Donnas ready to
complete the proj. The conditions was amazing and a dry wind blew all the cliff
carrying out the</span><span class="hps"><span style="mso-ansi-language: EN;"> </span></span><span class="hps"><span lang="EN" style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN;">moisture</span>.</span><span lang="EN" style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"> <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">I was so motivated but quite nervous
to try the route because I knew that I could do it, but fortunately <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>the personal battle ended. My first 8b+ was
done. THE BEST BIRTHDAY PRESENT EVER! HELL YEAH!</span><br />
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">After this
great challenge for me, I was ready to leave for 10 days in the magic forest of
Fontainebleau.</span><br />
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">In the next few days I will publish a blog about my experience in Font, stay tuned. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><br /></span></div>
AndreaZanonehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07755444194137851372noreply@blogger.com0