Ticino is my favourite boulder spot during the winter
season, it is quite near from my home (2,30 h) this year was the sixth winter
in a row, I usually spent there one day a week to climb on perfect granite
boulders.
I spent as
usual some days trying interesting lines like
-Miss Schweiz 7c+
-Wrap Artist 8a
-Blochx Addiction 8a
-Second Life 8a
- Conquistador 8a+
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| Second Life 8a Ph. Marco Zanone |
But this year was different, I
felt myself ready for new “experiences” trying something harder to understand
how my mind and my body work at the limit of my possibilities and to see that
my training period has been paid off.
One day in December Marco, Bazoo and I checked Boogalagga all
togheter, one of aesthetic line I saw in Chironico. It is composed by 6/7 moves
on all kind of holds like pinches, crimps, pockets, hell hoks and toe
hooks...incredible! The first move is surely the crux of the boulder. You have
to start with the LH on a quite good pinch and the RH on a crimp and squeeze to
high the feet. The LF is in the middle on a little sloper under the pinch and
with the RF you have to be really precise to put in the best way a strange hell
hook on a slopy crimp and do a dynamic move to catch a painfull two fingers
pocket with the RH. In the first three days of work on it I felt really good on
the upper part but the first move cause me some difficulties to find the right
body position and make the first move as much precise as I could.
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| Boogalagga 8b Ph.Stefan Kuerzi |
|
March the 8th I
came back in Chironico with the friends: Gabri, Bazoo, Max and my brother Marco
after a good warm up in Schattentall sector we moved to Boogalagga, the
conditions was perfect, I also remember that the snow covered some shadow part
under the boulder, the cold was essential for me!
My shape was really good that
day, I was able to climb the upper part really easy in the first go of the day,
I immediately focused all the energies on the first move!
I felt that something has changed that the
start position suited me more “comfortable” than the before session. After good
tries, I grabbed the pocket for the first time but immediately the hell hook
slipped...”fack man, what happend?! I thought after the fail, I was really
close what a bummer!” But at the same time I realised “today could be the right
day, I can repeat the first move for sure, i had to be focused on the position
and relaxed at the same time” these was the only words that I repeat in my mind
for all the tries after the best one.
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| Boogalagga 8b Ph.Stefan Kuerzi |
After a bit of rest, Bazoo
made a increadible go, sending Boogalagga with a perfect climbing! What a beast
dude?!? I was so happy for he and he gave me the right motivation and energy to
crush the boulder!
I put my shoes, I chalked my
hands, I took a breath and I started...I squeeze the starting holds and I
grabbed the pocket for the second time “wow” the focusing was extremely high
and for all the moves I took a big breath, when I locked the last crimp I
realised what I climbed....my little dream of this place, my harder boulder, my
second 8B! and when I found myself at top all the vibes and the feelings spent
under that beast caused me special sense of happiness and satisfaction for my
performance. Incredible two ascents in
less than 10 min! Thanks all my buddies to gave me right feelings, the support
and motivations to complete this important personal step for me!
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| Boogalagga 8b Ph.Stefan Kuerzi |
The Ticino season ended as
every year too early, so we decided to spent one day in one of the coolest spot
for bouldering during the spring/summer period, Magic Wood.
I felt in love with this place
from the first time, The environment is awesome, the wood is composed by
conifers and bluberry plants and also
the style of of climbing and the rock
quality are relly good!
In September I tried
Electroboogie 8a/+ so we moved togheter under this line to make some attempts!
The conditions were a bit warm so I had some difficulties to make the harder
moves on slopers. I figure out all the moves again and after some great tries
falling with the last slopy-pinch with the LH, I was able to crush it and put
in my pocket another amazing line of this wood.
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| Electroboogie 8a/+ Ph. Marco Zanone |
I the afternoon I tried
Steppenwolf 8a+/b, I was really satisfied because in just one session I was
able to make all the moves quite well and link the moves all togheter without
the first move, for me the crux of the boulder!
To finish my energies I tried
Riverbed, I was too tired but I was satisfied to climb in one shot all the
harder part and understand that it could be
one of my proj for the next tim.
