Last Saturday Luca Bazooka, Marco and I went to Brione to spent one of the last bouldering days before the hot season.
The conditions were quite good in the shadow, especially near the river where a faint wind blowing making the fiction really great.
After the warm up we went to try “Forever more” a powerful 8a composed by just two hard moves (The first two moves) and then a delicate reestablishment before the scary top out where you can’t make mistakes.
Unfortunately I wasn't strong enough to climb the hard moves, so after 20 mins we decided to change line. We moved to the classic river stone where there are Frogger, Fake Pamplemousse etc,because Marco and I wanted to try “Frogger” and “Fake Pamplemousse”.
|Fake Pamplemousse Pic.Marco Zanone|
We started to try “Fake”graded 8a and after 15 mins I re-climbed all the single moves so I taked a bit of rest while Marco tried the last move to get the sloper just before the jug(Top). When Marco finished his tries I did a good try but I fell with the sloper in my left hand because I didn’t stay enough solid with my body to get the swing, the next try was the right one, I get the swing and finally I grab the Top. After this funny line we moved to another line graded 8a and called Frogger a tricky boulder composed by a fantastic little pinch and good pockets on an awesome orange rock.
I remember that when I try it the previous times I had some difficulties on the last two moves when you have a crimp-pinch with the LH and a good vertical pocket with the RH to get a the last pocket with the right hand just before the final jug. So I try that moves and finally I found my beta that consist in a toe hook with the left foot in a good pocket in the middle of the boulder to crimp in the best way the sharp hold and to complete the last two moves.
|Frogger Pic. Marco Zanone|
After having configured out all moves I sent Frogger in my first go from the bottom and I was really satisfied to have climb it because It is in my opinion one of the coolest rock feature I've ever seen.
Also Marco and Luca were able to send Frogger so we leave all togheter with a big smile and motivated for the last boulder of the day “Limited Edition”
This boulder is situated in a privat area in fact in the morning the owner of the field told us that if we wanted to try it we shouldn’t be too many people in order not to make much noise.
We taked our stuffs and we reach the boulder, in the first time that I saw it I said WOW! No others words came out from my mouth.
So we opened our pads and we started to try it. Marco did a great flash attempt falling to grab the first sloper before the weird mantle. On my first attempt I had some difficuties to stick the good vertical rail reachable with a fanstastic “ninja move”!
The mantle siut me really well in fact I climbed it in the first try, I relaxed a bit and then I tried it again. I was able to do the dyno to the right rail so I understood that I had some possibilities to solved it,in fact with a bit of fear I climbed the mantle and I found myself at the Top of this icredible 7c+.
|Special Edition Pic. Marco Zanone|
The skin was finished and all the muscles of my body were weak so I decided to “call it a day” and came back to home.Now it’s time to take part in some competitions and after come back in other projects on rock, I’m Sycked!
Special edition ~ Brione from Marco Zanone on Vimeo.