When I went for the first time in the high part of Donnas to
search some new boulders I see the Incredible roof that now is called Global
Warming, but I didn’t think that it could be climbable. Some months laters I spoke with Niky Ceria and He told me that
He was trying that proj and I said WOW! I was hopeful that Niky could put up
the proj.
Middle section of GW Pic. Marco Zanone |
One day I saw Niky again and he said me that the proj was done..good
job! He has been a great visionary because the line is really logical and each
hold is in the right position..Congrats! I saw the video about his ascent and
the moves didn’t seem suitable for my
level and I decided to wait to try it because it seemed too hard for me.
When I came back to Spain, I was quite focused to try Global
Warming but I know that I was not alone because Gabri Moroni and Luca Rinaldi wanted to try it
too. Two weeks ago I went with my friends in Donnas to start to figure out the moves and to understand
if it was possible for me. In the first day of trying I spent about three hours
under the roof to get the moves, at the end of the day I was super satisfied
because I climbed all the single moves , getting too two great tries from the
bottom to the last hard move, that consists in a fantastic dyno to a good
triangolar sloper-egde and to hold the hard swing! I was sicked and exciting to
came back as soon as possible.
Two weeks later all of us came back to the proj and I was really
motivated but a bit frustated because I wanted to repeat at least the hardest
single moves like the past session.
The swing of GW Ph. Marco Zanone |
After a fast warm up Gabri, Marco,Alessia and I went directly to GW, we ate something, we brushed
the holds and put the pads. The rest of the crew was coming and immediately we
put up the climbing shoes and we start the “fight” with the boulder. In the
first time I felt a bit tired without energies and strength in fact I had some
difficulties to reclimb the single moves in the middle of the roof and I felt the “famous dyno” to the sloper-egde so hard.
Meanwhile I felt heavy like an Elephant instead Gabri was able to send the boulder easily on his second try of
the day, Nice Work DUDE! I decided to take
a bit of rest and do a relaxing walk around the forest with my friends to show
them a nice boulder that I found two weeks ago. We came back down to GW and I
felt ok to try it again, fortunately the
holds were brushed and cold. I put up the climbing shoes and I focused one
minute under the line to repeat in my mind all the single hands and feet
moves..I started, my skin was cold enough and the fiction was super good I
climb the first part really well and I arrived at the crux, I get finally the slopy
–edge and the swing I did the crazy toe hook to the edge and I climbed the
mantle….I couldn’t believe! Global Warming was Done! What a Joy..Thanks all my
friends for the incitement, their support was essential. For the next hours I
was incredulous to be able to do it, it was one of the best moment ever of my
climbing career.
Toe hook of GW Ph. Marco Zanone |
Now it’s time to train hard and to focus on some other
project.
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