domenica 2 febbraio 2014

Global Warming

When I went for the first time in the high part of Donnas to search some new boulders I see the Incredible roof that now is called Global Warming, but I didn’t think that it could be climbable. Some months laters I spoke with Niky Ceria and He told me that He was trying that proj and I said WOW! I was hopeful that Niky could put up the proj.
Middle section of GW Pic. Marco Zanone
One day I saw Niky again  and he said me that the proj was done..good job! He has been a great visionary because the line is really logical and each hold is in the right position..Congrats! I saw the video about his ascent and the moves didn’t seem suitable  for my level and I decided to wait to try it because it seemed too hard for me.
When I came back to Spain, I was quite focused to try Global Warming but I know that I was not alone because  Gabri Moroni and Luca Rinaldi wanted to try it too. Two weeks ago I went with my friends in Donnas  to start to figure out the moves and to understand if it was possible for me. In the first day of trying I spent about three hours under the roof to get the moves, at the end of the day I was super satisfied because I climbed all the single moves , getting too two great tries from the bottom to the last hard move, that  consists in a fantastic dyno to a good triangolar sloper-egde and to hold the hard swing! I was sicked and exciting to came back as soon as possible.
Two weeks later all of us came back to the proj and I was really motivated but a bit frustated because I wanted to repeat at least the hardest single moves like the past session. 
The swing of GW  Ph. Marco Zanone

After a fast warm up  Gabri, Marco,Alessia and I  went  directly to GW, we ate something, we brushed the holds and put the pads. The rest of the crew was coming and immediately we put up the climbing shoes and we start the “fight” with the boulder. In the first time I felt a bit tired without energies and strength in fact I had some difficulties to reclimb the single moves in the middle of the roof and I felt  the “famous dyno” to the sloper-egde so hard.
Meanwhile I felt heavy like an Elephant instead  Gabri was able  to send the boulder easily on his second try of the day, Nice Work DUDE!  I decided to take a bit of rest and do a relaxing walk around the forest with my friends to show them a nice boulder that I found two weeks ago. We came back down to GW and I felt ok to try  it again, fortunately the holds were brushed and cold. I put up the climbing shoes and I focused one minute under the line to repeat in my mind all the single hands and feet moves..I started, my skin was cold enough and the fiction was super good I climb the first part really well and I arrived at the crux, I get finally the slopy –edge and the swing I did the crazy toe hook to the edge and I climbed the mantle….I couldn’t believe! Global Warming was Done! What a Joy..Thanks all my friends for the incitement, their support was essential. For the next hours I was incredulous to be able to do it, it was one of the best moment ever of my climbing career.
Toe hook of GW  Ph. Marco Zanone

Now it’s time to train hard and to focus on some other project.

 The Link of the video of GW: 

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