The Ticino season started seriously, my brother and I went to
Cresciano and to Chironico to try some ticklist projects.
In Cresciano we went to try the Dagger , it is an amazing and
hard roof composed of super aesthetic and difficult compression moves with
crazy toe hooks but it didn’t siut me
from the first attempt but I was
motivated to try it the same.
The first day of trying I climbed the middle part quite well
but I felt it a bit hard for my standars, the first part caused me some
problems, in fact I didn’t grab the big step that allow to get into the middle
part.
The second day, three weeks later , I tried it again I felt it a bit better then the first day and
I was able to do the first part and I
did good links on the second one. After one hour session was really pumped and destroyed from the
physical moves but I was really happy anyway because I enjoyed this great
famous line that one day could become a serious project!
In Cresciano I climbed also an awesome line called Jungle book
from the stand start 7c+ and 8a from the bottom. It was a pleasure climbed on it because it’s such a cool line composed
by slopers and a weird hell hook.
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| Jungle Book Ph. Marco Zanone |
After I tried Blochx Addiction, another 8a in the same block.
I think it is a bit harder than Souvenir composed of a difficult shoulder move
and an hard swing to hold the last good undercling before to get into the end
of the Aviator. It took me some tries to styck the shoulder crimp and on my
best try I was able to hold the swing quite well, I took the good undercling,
but I felt pretty tired so I fall down with the Aviator’s jug in front of my
eyes, I was dissapointed but the day was still long.
From the warm up boulder we moved toThe Pocket problem
because Stewe wanted to try it so in the meantime my brother went to Boogalagga,
but the two slopy pockets were wet sowe decided to changed our project. We
moved to Freak Brothers!
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| Freak Brothers Ph. Marco Zanone |
I decided to try to flash it, but I knew that I had few
possibilities of success but I was focused the same so I put my shoes and I started! I arrived to the
crimps, I matched it, and I pull up to get the edge but the right hand slipped
off, what a pity! The next tries I wasn’t able to grab the final edge and I
felt it much harder then the flash attempt. I relaxed a bit and I froze my fingers with the snow so I start
for a new try, I get the left crimp really well, I matched it and finally I
reach the good edge before the mantle, I stayed relax and I did the exit well,
what a joy, I was so happy, one of my “dreams” of Chironico was done, YES SIR!
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| Freak Brothers Ph. Marco Zanone |
Then I come back to Blochx Addiction but I was too tired to
get the swing again ,so, I came back to home with a great smile and no skin on
my fingers.
Three days later, Matteo, my brother and I came back to
Chironico and we went to Centrale sector, we warmp up and then we moved to 101
sector to try Delusion of Grandeur 8a+. The endurance part suited me quite well,
this part consist in weird climbing on a slopy edge where you can reach the
final scary top out with a small
undercling and with a right foot really high.
I had some difficulties to do the first
part, where you have to do a dynamic move to a good pinch from a small
undercling with the left hand and small crimp with the right one that allowed
to enter in the middle part.
After having figure out all the moves I started to try it
from the bottom. I climbed all the first part and I basically arrived at the end of the endurance
part, I grab the slopy jug just before the scary top out but my right foot slipped
off. it was really unexpected and I fell down, I was so disapointed because I
had good possibilities to climbed it. The next try was the same but this time
was the right hand that slipped off, I was really incredulous and quite
frustrated in fact I decided to change boulder.
We moved to Tricky a funny 8a boulder close to Delusion, I
felt tired and pumped after that two tries on the 8a+ so I ate something and I relaxed a
bit. After 20 min of rest I decided to “back in the game” and with some
explanation of my brother for the right beta I flashed it, It was a great fight
because I felt tired and my fingers were frozen. I think that this boulder is
not 8a for sure, but I know that is difficult to say something about the grade
in the flash attempt, so in my opinion 7c is appropriated.
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| Tricky Ph Marco Zanone |
An exhausting hiking was waiting for us, because from 101 sector we
had to come back to Centrale sector because I wanted to destroyed myself on the
last boulder of the day, and I chose Le vent nous portera 7c+, not the best
line in this sector but the holds are not sharp, in fact it was good.
After some tries to figure out all the moves I started to do
some good attempts on it. Two times I felt to reach the small crimp with te
right hand just before the dyno to the jug and one time I felt to grab the jug.
I felt really destroyed but I was motivated to climb it. I decided to make the
last try of the day so I froze my hands
with the snow again, I put liquid chalk and I started. I taked all the holds in
the right way and finally I did the dyno to the jug! Yesss, Finally.This
line was done too and I finished the day in the best way. It was surely the
unexpected ascent so I was really satisfied.
I hope to came back as soon as possible to finish my “
battle” with Delusion of Grandeur and to have the pleasure to climb other
awesome lines.
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