sabato 17 ottobre 2015

Swiss is freaking awesome

Ticino is my favourite boulder spot during the winter season, it is quite near from my home (2,30 h) this year was the sixth winter in a row, I usually spent there one day a week to climb on perfect granite boulders.

 I spent as usual some days trying interesting lines like
-Miss Schweiz 7c+
-Wrap Artist 8a
-Blochx Addiction 8a
-Second Life 8a
- Conquistador 8a+
Second Life 8a  Ph. Marco Zanone

But this year was different, I felt myself ready for new “experiences” trying something harder to understand how my mind and my body work at the limit of my possibilities and to see that my training period has been paid off.
 One day in December  Marco, Bazoo and I checked Boogalagga all togheter, one of aesthetic line I saw in Chironico. It is composed by 6/7 moves on all kind of holds like pinches, crimps, pockets, hell hoks and toe hooks...incredible! The first move is surely the crux of the boulder. You have to start with the LH on a quite good pinch and the RH on a crimp and squeeze to high the feet. The LF is in the middle on a little sloper under the pinch and with the RF you have to be really precise to put in the best way a strange hell hook on a slopy crimp and do a dynamic move to catch a painfull two fingers pocket with the RH. In the first three days of work on it I felt really good on the upper part but the first move cause me some difficulties to find the right body position and make the first move as much precise as I could.

Boogalagga 8b  Ph.Stefan Kuerzi

March the 8th I came back in Chironico with the friends: Gabri, Bazoo, Max and my brother Marco after a good warm up in Schattentall sector we moved to Boogalagga, the conditions was perfect, I also remember that the snow covered some shadow part under the boulder, the cold was essential for me!
My shape was really good that day, I was able to climb the upper part really easy in the first go of the day, I immediately focused all the energies on the first move!
 I felt that something has changed that the start position suited me more “comfortable” than the before session. After good tries, I grabbed the pocket for the first time but immediately the hell hook slipped...”fack man, what happend?! I thought after the fail, I was really close what a bummer!” But at the same time I realised “today could be the right day, I can repeat the first move for sure, i had to be focused on the position and relaxed at the same time” these was the only words that I repeat in my mind for all the tries after the best one.
Boogalagga 8b  Ph.Stefan Kuerzi

After a bit of rest, Bazoo made a increadible go, sending Boogalagga with a perfect climbing! What a beast dude?!? I was so happy for he and he gave me the right motivation and energy to crush the boulder!
I put my shoes, I chalked my hands, I took a breath and I started...I squeeze the starting holds and I grabbed the pocket for the second time “wow” the focusing was extremely high and for all the moves I took a big breath, when I locked the last crimp I realised what I little dream of this place, my harder boulder, my second 8B! and when I found myself at top all the vibes and the feelings spent under that beast caused me special sense of happiness and satisfaction for my performance.  Incredible two ascents in less than 10 min! Thanks all my buddies to gave me right feelings, the support and motivations to complete this important personal step for me! 

Boogalagga 8b  Ph.Stefan Kuerzi

The Ticino season ended as every year too early, so we decided to spent one day in one of the coolest spot for bouldering during the spring/summer period, Magic Wood.
I felt in love with this place from the first time, The environment is awesome, the wood is composed by conifers and bluberry plants  and also the style of  of climbing and the rock quality are relly good!

In September I tried Electroboogie 8a/+ so we moved togheter under this line to make some attempts! The conditions were a bit warm so I had some difficulties to make the harder moves on slopers. I figure out all the moves again and after some great tries falling with the last slopy-pinch with the LH, I was able to crush it and put in my pocket another amazing line of this wood.
Electroboogie 8a/+  Ph. Marco Zanone

I the afternoon I tried Steppenwolf 8a+/b, I was really satisfied because in just one session I was able to make all the moves quite well and link the moves all togheter without the first move, for me the crux of the boulder!
To finish my energies I tried Riverbed, I was too tired but I was satisfied to climb in one shot all the harder part and understand that it could be one of my proj for the next tim.

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